I watched the Appliance Parts Pros video. Good video with great information. But If you have a seven year old washer like I did, that gets run one or more times a day, the repair is not as easy as the video makes in look...

I'll try to be cover everything as this was a first time I've ever tried to replace the bearings in a washer. (First washer that failed that way)

1) This can be a messy job. If you end up resorting to using penetrating oil like I did, it will make a mess. Make sure the space you work in is either protected, or a workspace that you don't mind getting a little dirty.

2)Removing top of cabinet. Some Whirlpool washers CANNOT have the "locks" opened with a putty like demonstrated. My model required removing the top screws on the back of the machine that held the top to the hinge in the back. This allowed me to move the top forward, as there was extra metal pieces that prevented opening the top until it moved toward the front.

3)Removing agitator. My model has a low water agitator so you still removed the top with a screwdriver (just check the raised ridges near top for a slot to pry it off with.) No o-ring. (Maybe another reason water gets in??)

3)Removing Basket hub: For mine I needed to use an electric drill. Otherwise it seemed the screws did not budge. (be careful not to strip heads!)

4)The inner tub / basket removal process with the auto jack: This only got me 90% of the way. I had to put something small and strong BETWEEN the jack and the drive shaft that was able to push it down the last bit. (In my case I had a a Ratchet Enlarger Adapter that the female end just about fit over the drive shaft, then the jack teetered over the male end) This then lightly drove the adapter into the basket but separated the basket from the shaft.

5)Motor stator (The thing with the copper coils all around)
I'd recommend pulling the wire harness plugs out BEFORE removing the stator. Less likely to put stress on the wires when you get the stator off.

6)Removing the drive shaft: On my model there was no way you could drive the shaft out when the washer was almost on its side like the video. I ended up using two auto ramps, turning the washer around so I could push it on its front side on to the high part of the ramp. This then let me place the washer upside down! The control panel then sat on the low end of the ramp and gently leaned against a wall. Only by having it upside down, could you prevent the outer tub from bouncing. You may want to put a towel in with the shaft so then it doesn't leave a small dent on the lid like mine now has.

7)Bearing installation tool: Use tape to hold it in place. Otherwise you may push it up as you load the spacer, washer, bearing, lower half of tool. Also a 15/16" socket is a much faster way to tighten the nut on the tool.

8)Putting in the new shaft: I found I had to use the bearing removal tool to gently resolve any misalignment of parts after installing the bearings, spacer and washer. Then the shaft goes in easy! (No hammer needed!)

9)putting back the rotor: Line up the hole like you did when removing it before you try pushing it on. Less likely to miss on the splines.

10)Tub seal: Be warned: The glue smells like airplane glue.

11) Don't forget to run the diagnostics like suggested in the video.

I'm going through this process myself right now and I'm not sure if the bearings are seated deep enough. Should the spacer have wiggle room between them?
Hopefully you'll see this question, I'd love some experienced input.