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cbrillow  
#1 Posted : Thursday, May 14, 2020 10:35:28 AM(UTC)
cbrillow

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/14/2020(UTC)
Posts: 0
United States
Location: SE Michigan

We have an 'elderly' Maytag Gemini MGR6772BDB that is unable to bake or broil in its upper oven. The last time it was successfully used, both functions worked fine.

I have an appliance protection program with our local utility company, who sent out a technician. Within 5 minutes, much of which was spent talking with me about sous vide cooking, he looked in the oven, without taking off any covers and declared 'It doesn't have any voltage, I'll have to order parts.' And, with that, he was off.

A little later, I received a call from his office, informing me that the part - a control board - is no longer available; my range can't be repaired. I searched on the 'net and found that it is, indeed, difficult to find a replacement. Not impossible, but difficult...

Sounds easy enough. Do a half-assed diagnosis, blame it on a part that's hard-to-find or too-expensive, and close the books on it. Oh, and collect your fee for doing nothing from the utility that's paying the bills.

Additional information about the nature of the failure:

* bottom oven works, as do all burners
* all functions on the control board key panel appear to be functional
* there are no diagnostic error codes displayable
* relays 'click' appropriately when trying to start upper oven Bake and Broil

Digging in further, I removed the heat shield from the oven and checked for voltage at the igniter wires. 120Vac appears across the igniter upon command to Bake. Igniter doesn't glow. Disconnected igniter and measured resistance -- found very high resistance, >600K ohms. At minimum, this would appear to be a bad igniter...

However -- the broiler doesn't work, either. And I noticed that the bake igniter also has this 120Vac applied when trying to fire up the broiler. I didn't attempt to isolate the broiler igniter and check it. I'm trying to get the tech back here to do reevaluate the 'bad control voltage' diagnosis.

Does anyone have any comments, suggestions?
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