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Hi everyone,
Another year, another appliance to fix :)
Seems like lots of posts on Thermador XLO burners -- had the back right go out maybe a month or so ago, and now the front right doesn't work. By not work, I mean I turn on the burner (knob), hear clicking/see spark, but the gas valve isn't opening.
After combing the forums here, it seems a typical problem and quite likely the potentiometer kit, possibly solenoid.
The plan will be to attempt to remove the grill top venturi tubes, see if I can eliminate the solenoid as the culprit (my hunch is that it's the pot). If the solenoid is good, I'll swap w/ the pot kit.
Does this sound reasonable? I have two hesitations: one is breaking the venturi tubes, in which case the wife will be irritated that there would be NO working burners :), the other is that the kit indicates modification may be necessary. (Kit is AP3872616) Anyone who has done this: Are we talking pinpoint precision modification or duct tape and bailing wire? I can handle some simple modifications but anything complex is likely to make the problem worse in my hands.
Thanks!
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Rank: Member
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I tried to remove some of the venturi tubes -- got 1 off no problem, now working on another, but it's stuck pretty good. I hear some people advising to cut it off with a hack saw or dremel. What exactly would I cut?
It looks like the venturi screws into the burner base. I can't tell if they screw onto the jet holder underneath? If it's stuck, am I trying to sacrifice the burner base and venturi?
I guess I'm just trying to minimize damage as I attempt to crack this thing open.... thx!
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Originally Posted by: bthlonewolf  I tried to remove some of the venturi tubes -- got 1 off no problem, now working on another, but it's stuck pretty good. I hear some people advising to cut it off with a hack saw or dremel. What exactly would I cut?
It looks like the venturi screws into the burner base. I can't tell if they screw onto the jet holder underneath? If it's stuck, am I trying to sacrifice the burner base and venturi?
I guess I'm just trying to minimize damage as I attempt to crack this thing open.... thx! The venturi screws into the jet holder. The reason why it's recommended to cut the venturi head off if it can not be easy unscrewed is to prevent the gas tubes from possible damage. Some of them are no longer available. In such situation you will have to order a new venturi and, possible, a new jet holder. You have to remove all ventures in order to gain an access to the solenoid and/or potentiometer. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for THERMADOR SGCS304RW STEEL BURNER GAS COOKTOPS | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene The venturi screws into the jet holder. The reason why it's recommended to cut the venturi head off if it can not be easy unscrewed is to prevent the gas tubes from possible damage. Some of them are no longer available. In such situation you will have to order a new venturi and, possible, a new jet holder. You have to remove all ventures in order to gain an access to the solenoid and/or potentiometer. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for THERMADOR SGCS304RW STEEL BURNER GAS COOKTOPS | AppliancePartsPros.comGene. Thanks Gene! So, I'm guessing the venturi, and possibly burner base and the jet holder would be sacrificed to save the gas tubes. Hmmm. So don't get me wrong, I've saved many appliances (some multiple times) with the awesome help of this forum, but this time I'm wondering if this is not economically sound. I'll gently try the other venturi tubes to see if they are stuck, but if so, we could be approaching $400 in parts. Not sure if this is truly a safety issue but considered opening the bottom figuring it might be easier to replace or fabricate a panel that might allow me to do this without removing the top.
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Unfortunately the only way to access all parts is to remove the top panel.
If any one of the venturi is stuck (rusted in) then you probably would not be able to remove it without cutting its head off.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Unfortunately the only way to access all parts is to remove the top panel.
If any one of the venturi is stuck (rusted in) then you probably would not be able to remove it without cutting its head off.
Gene. Gene, I have the same issues on a "PRSG366". I was only able to loosen on of 4 venturi using a 20mm socket, (Tightest fit i found). The one I loosened is now freewheeling and won't screw back on. Did I break something below? The other 3 are now stripped. Might be redundant to ask: Is there any access through the rear panel of the range? (To avoid cutting up the venturi and burner base?) If not can you explain how to best perform the cutting?
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Originally Posted by: pm3405 ...The one I loosened is now freewheeling and won't screw back on. Did I break something below?...
...Is there any access through the rear panel of the range?...
...If not can you explain how to best perform the cutting?... Most likely you did break the gas tubes under the top panel. No, the only access is to remove the top panel. I used a Dremel tool kit. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for THERMADOR PRSG366 GAS RANGE | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Thanks Gene. Are the gas tubes available for this model? Additionally, one of my XLO burner works but only on low. One of my back burners has no gas at all. Which items besides venturis and gas tubes might I have to replace/order?
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In order to check gas tubes availability you have to remove the top panel first and determine which gas tubes do you need. Then click on the model number link in the previous reply. The instructions on XLO burner troubleshooting is attached to the reply. Gene.
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Thanks for the downloadable troubleshooting flowchart.
My problem was I had intermittent/low voltage (switched 120 volt) on "A" as measured on the wire between on the spark module and Simmer Control module.
It was the relay on the Simmer Control module. This is important because the Simmer Control module non H-A version in no longer available. If you have an SQ003 "H" non "H-A" version you will have to either send it to a rebuilder company or fix it yourself. I pulled the relay and burnished the contacts. After opening the relay I stuck a knife between the contacts and pushed them together and moved the knife back and forth to clean and burnish the contacts.
I also had a bad Pot #189816 (no longer available). No gas was coming out of one of the XLO burners (no click and gas sound when you turn it on). Check the voltage to the relay, common problem). Again no part available, I had to pull the pot apart and fix an open connection on the pot board. The pot wiper arm cuts the pcb trace over time. You can use this conductive paint to repair the pot board. MG Chemicals 842AR-P Silver Conductive Pen
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