My issue was the larger dual burner was stuck on but cycling through a low temp... all forums suggested the switch needed replacement. I received and installed a new switch per another forum I found that was definitely not correct as when I restored power the main home breaker blew. Then, I found this forum and your post below:

First, install the jumper wire from P1 to S1 terminals on new switch

Red wire(single) on terminal 4 on old switch should be on terminal 2 on new switch and terminates at burner sensor circuit.

Red wire(dual) on terminal 5 on old switch should be on terminal P2 on new switch and will terminate at terminal block and jump over to the next infinite switch.(two directions).

Black wire (single) on terminal 1 of old switch should be on S2 terminal on new switch and terminate at indicator light.

Black wire(dual) on terminal 2 on old switch should be on P1 terminal on new switch(beside jumper wire connection) and terminate at terminal block and jump to the next infinite switch(two directions).

Brown wire terminal 3 on old switch should be on terminal 4 on new switch and terminate at outside burner element terminal on burner.

Yellow wire terminal 6 on old switch should be on terminal 4A on new switch and terminate at inside burner element terminal on burner.


My color wires are different, but I followed the instructions based on the number from the old switch you referenced. When I turned the power back on, the original problem was resolved, but now the burner remains on high when turned on... for both the larger burner or the smaller burner.

Is this an issue of wiring not being correct? Or did the new switch get fried when I first blew the main breaker?

Thanks for the fast response Joe! Unfortunately I don't have a multi meter to run this test.

My model number is JES9800AAB and the serial number is 16451164ZZ

And yes, that picture is the new switch we are talking about.

I am a Electrician. I can provide service regarding Electric Equipment.

I wanted to thank you for this post. I just had to change the switch on my electric cooktop and your instructions worked perfectly.

Thanks for posting this.

I wanted to give a description of my experience with this since I just successfully replaced the dual burner infinite switch on my Jenn-Air CCE3401B with the Whirlpool 12002125 switch. In my case the old switch was failing to reliably shut off. That's bad! Instructions for the replacement found online are of various qualities and of course vary according to the exact stove-top model. There is talk about splitting piggy-backed red wire connections above and beyond just moving the wires to the correct terminals on the new switch. And yes, in the end I did have to do this, although my situation didn't match exactly any of the standard ones. In the end I really had to take the time to fully understand the overall wiring of the unit to really figure out what was going on. So hopefully this helps someone.

As noted here and elsewhere, the first matter is to get the colored wires on the right terminals on the new switch.

1. I had a single black wire on old switch terminal 2. This is one phase of the 220V (so it's 115V to ground). I moved it to P1 on the new switch.

2. I used the included jumper wire to connect the additional P1 terminal to the S1 terminal. As indicated elsewhere this brings 115V power to the internal switch circuit that powers the surface light around/below the knob.

3. An orange wire connected to terminal 5 on the old switch. This wire clearly runs up to the surface light. That gets moved to new terminal S2 on the new switch.

4. I had a blue wire on old switch terminal 3. This will carry the other phase of the 220V to one of the dual burners. I don't recall if it's the inner or outer ring burner. This is the feed to the one part of the dual burner. When the switch is on, there will be up to 220V (depending on the knob setting) between this wire and the black wire. I moved this wire to new terminal 4.

5. The purple wire on old terminal 4 is the feed to the other part of the dual burner. I moved it to new terminal 4a.

6. I connected the red wire (which was really more pink than red) on old terminal N to P2 on the new switch. For me this was a dual red wire. And here is where things got a little weird. One of these reds is of course the feed for one phase of the the 220V, essentially what the switch "sends" to blue and purple wires. The other red ran back to the high temp limit switch above the dual burner. It seemed odd to me that these should be tied together at old terminal N, but this is how it was.

I turned on the breaker and the light below the knob certainly worked but the dual burner wouldn't get hot. The 3 other burners still worked as normal.

At this point I read several posts about separating a dual red wire connected to the RIGHT FRONT burner . . . Eh? One of those reds was supposed to go directly to the rear left dual burner. The other red was connected to the red feed from the incoming supply. The suggestion was to separate these 2 reds. Keep the one connected to the incoming feed attached to the front right switch. But connect the one from the left dual burner element to terminal 2 on the new switch. But why?

First off, my setup was a little different. I didn't have a red wire going from the right front burner to the rear left dual burner. My red to the left rear dual burner came from the piggyback connection on the new switch (was terminal N, now is P2). Recall that that was a double red wire for me. Furthermore, the wire doesn't really go to the burner element itself. It goes to the temperature sensor/probe above the element which I believe is actually also a high limit switch. It makes sense that we need this since of course the burners cycle on and off when extremely hot. So I just want to clarify this. The wires that go to the the burner element itself are blue, purple, and black. It's easy to trace the blue and purple wires from the burner back to the new switch. The black wire at the burner element does not terminate at the switch. It's not the one you connected to terminal P1. Instead, it's daisy-chained to another switch and ultimately tied back to black wire at the main feed.

Anyway, it seems that the new switch handles the high temp "interlock" differently. I cut the red wire coming from the dual burner's high temp switch where it joined the other red at terminal P2. I put a new terminator on it (be sure to use 10/12 gauge terminator) and connected it to terminal labeled 2 on the new switch. So this is what was indicated in a few success stories I found in forums, the difference being in my case that there was no involvement of the right front burner or any other burner for that matter.

Everything works perfectly fine now.

I've red posts from people indicating that they've killed power to their other burners after the red-wire cutting trick. So the bottom line is to make sure that you trace the red wire feed to all your burners. In my case I have 2 reds coming out from the main power line into the unit. One goes directly to the rear right which then jumps to the front right, and one goes direct to the front left which then jumps to the read left (dual) burner. Obviously, those have to stay intact to bring one phase of the 220V to each burner. But, any red wire connected to the high temp limit switch on the dual burner that joins red at ANY other switch (I don't care which one) needs to be cut and connected instead to terminal 2 on the new dual burner switch. That's the bottom line. How the old switch handled the high temp limit with a continuous red feed to the limit switch vs. how the new switch handles it with a wire from terminal 2 - is something I don't quite understand.

Hopefully this helps someone.