Hi folks;

About two months ago the control board decided to develop a high-resistance connection at one of the big spade terminals (probably for the heating element) and burned up that terminal. I was successful in jumpering it directly to the board through the now-vacant hole, and rescued the board, cleaning up and tightening all the other connectors at the same time (a couple of which were quite loose and probably headed for the same problem.)

All was well for a while and now the thermal fuse has opened. It MAY have been from the stress of the previous incident (it did NOT pop when the board tried to burn up!) but then again, it may NOT. There is no evidence of further heat damage to the wiring -- it all looks ok -- but I cannot see inside the relay covers of course since they're opaque.

I found the fuse part number and have a new one coming, but I'd REALLY like a schematic so I can check for shorts before I put the new fuse in and immediately have it blow if there IS a short somewhere. Without some sort of wiring diagram I'm shooting blind (or have to pull the entire harness apart and trace each wire, which I do not look forward to!) I rate the probability of the original failure being due to a partial short in the heating element (which I've seen in water heaters before and they tend to trash the wiring at the thermostats when it happens) as relatively low due to the discovery of other terminals that were quite loose, so I *believe* it was simple arcing, but I could be wrong on this and would like to head off the possibility. The circuit does not have a GFI on it so if there's a partial short in the element to the case I can find it with a schematic but if it's a partial short and being that the case is grounded it would not trip the breaker but *would* materially over-draw the current ratings of the wiring in the unit.

There is some sort of sensor in the top left of the unit's control panel protruding into where vapor exits during drying; it reads open (high impedance), but I don't know if that's a thermal switch (e.g. closes when hot) or whether it's a thermistor or similar. If it's a thermistor it's probably bad. It appears to be on some sort of sealed bracket with no immediately-obvious way to unlock said bracket for replacement IF it's bad. The door switches are good.

It appears that the failure occurred during a dry cycle; I had no idea it was dead until I went to load it and the control panel was blacked out.

A schematic would allow me to answer all the questions but I can't find one scraping around the Internet... thanks in advance for any help!