Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
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One thing I find wrong with continuity tests when you have an intermittent problem is that it only takes one strand of wire to give a good continuity reading while it may not provide enough current under load. I find simple continuity test on intermittent problems to not be reliable, but they are great for tracing open circuits when the equipment is not working at all.
I will follow your advice of checking continuity while "banging the door around." I think that is a good idea.
I am not sure Maytag will sell me a timer with any kind of return. Last part I ordered they said I should bring in the old part and compare it completely because once I walked out of the store I owned it. I can understand that, there are many who would take advantage of that and return the old part.
Do you have any troubleshooting method of determining if the problem is internal to the timer?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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You are right about intermittent discontinuities being difficult to detect, which is why folks just remove and replace until they cure the problem. Unfortunately the same goes with a timer, a service tech will replace it with one from the truck; it if fixes the problem in it stays, if not, out it goes and something else is tried.
We who are not service techs (I test and repair appliances for a non-profit) do not have that luxury, so I can only tell you what we do. Sometimes we find the problem, some times we do not.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
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Ha! You've got that right Sid! And the the timer that did not have anything wrong with it gets put in the next washer and BOTH parties pay for the timer.
With a little trial and error we can fix these things a lot more inexpensively than the pros and we know exactly what we have done and what fixes it.
Pretty hard to BS yourself!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
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I solved my problem of the dryer shutting off before the clothes were dry.
Unfortunately, because this dryer is in a rental, I violated one of my troubleshooting rules which is: "replace one thing at a time so you know what fixed it."
I had earlier replaced the Start Switch at the Maytag dealer's suggestion which was no help.
I then replaced the Door Switch and the Door Latch BUT ALSO ran a separate ground from the chassis to the cold water pipe.
The tenant now reports that the problem has been solved.
It is now my understanding that this dryer must have the separate and independent grounding wire.
I could not find anything wrong with either the Door Switch or the Door Latch but replaced them at this forums suggestion.
One of these three things solved my problem and each is a very inexpensive and easy to do fix. I would recommend any one with this type dryer to take these three measures before spending money on more expensive parts or repairmen.
Thanks to this forum for helping me solve my problem...Good Work!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Glad you got it fixed, and thanks for updating us. That is very helpful for both myself and the folks who read this forum
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