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I know its time for help now.
I have the above mentioned dryer that will not heat in any setting.
Things checked and done:
1. All thermostats, thermal fuses and heating element have continuity.
2. Both the inlet and exhaust thermistors ohm correctly both at the control panel and on the thermistors alone, both thermistors reduce resistance when heated as per manufacturer specs.
3. No continuity across heater relay when running.
4. 123v on L1 & L2
5. 123v to both sides of relay when running while connection unplugged (centrifugal switch is sending power thru to red wire)
6. Replaced control board (same results)
7. Diagnostic test with new board stored error code F31 (must be an old result as both L1 and L2 are at 123v)
8. Diagnostic test (running the motor and heater) interestingly the heater works??????? which indicates the control board can close the heater relay.
So now I pose the question, why will the heater work in diagnostic mode but not in any regular cycle?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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I had a weird one once. It had 240 to the back of it, but it wouldn't heat. I checked everything...the element, thermostats, switches, motor switch, and the timer. All tested OK, but no heat.
I finally tested the power coming in when I pushed the start button. 240 push the button dryer is running, 120 volts. One side was loosing voltage somewhere. Stop the dryer and the 120 would slowly go up to 240 again.
Turns out there were bad connections on the one side of the knife switch in the disconnect box. it wasn't able to handle any amperage, but it did show voltage when cool and not under a load.
I also wonder if the control panel could be somehow stuck on air fluff. Mechanically or electronically.
Just throwing a few things out there.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Update
Thanks ThatGuy
So I checked for 240 again across the red and black leads at the heat relay and I do get 245v
I swapped back to my original control board and wouldn't you know it when i put it in diagnostic mode I get heat but not when in any normal cycle (BTW heat is not controlled by the thermistors during diag mode, as I watched the temp climb to 177 not cycling and the unit shut down)
I double checked for resistance coming in from the inlet and exhaust thermistors and still have correct readings
The only thing that might be it is as you stated ThatGuy the mode is stuck in air fluff but it must be at the UI because two boards with identical issues would be very curious
So my question then would be if the UI can be switched from air fluff to extra low - low - medium and high settings could it be an issue with the UI itself?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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I don't know much about this particular dryer. It's very unlikely that you would have two control boards that have the same problem. Unless the "new" one was not new, but one somebody returned.
Its really looking more like a problem with the user interface board. That or the wiring in between.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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update:
so I found some spare funds and bought a used UI from e bay...
finally success we have heat....
thanks for the suggestion thatguy.... every repair is a learning experience
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