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David C.  
#1 Posted : Saturday, June 16, 2012 10:09:30 PM(UTC)
David C.

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Posts: 3

I have a Whirlpool Mark Series that quit cooling. Checked for power to the compressor and there was none. I decided to "hotwire" the compressor to eliminate any switches or wiring. The compressor still would not start so I tried a start capacitor that had values that were close to the original. The compressor (~2.5 amps) will now run and cool:) . The condensor fan does not have power to it, but the evaporator fan runs:mad: . If I unplug the defrost timer, the evaporator fan will not run. I have checked the thermostatic switch and it has power to it and it has continuity. The red wire that plugs into the juction block (by the water valve) does not have power at that location. It appears that the red wire is broken between the thermostat and the junction block:confused: . It anyone has a wiring diagram for the unit, I would very much appreciate it. The fridge has been running for about 3 hours with fans blowing on the condensor coils and the freezer temp is down to 6 deg. F.

David C.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, June 17, 2012 1:57:28 AM(UTC)
denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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I cannot find any info on a RNR4 but there are parts for a RWR4 see below.
Replacement parts for ED26MMXRNR4 models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Also I cannot find a wiring diagram for either a RNR4 or a RWR4 but I was able to get one for a RWR3. It is probably very close or may be an exact match to your unit.
See the attachment.

It also has a wiring layout which should be a big help tracking down the open in the circuit.
File Attachment(s):
ED26MMX.pdf (262kb) downloaded 10 time(s).

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David C.  
#3 Posted : Sunday, June 17, 2012 7:42:47 AM(UTC)
David C.

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Denman,
Thank you for the wiring schematic. I ran a jumper wire from the condensor motor to the terminal block, hooked up the compressor wiring as it can from the factory and everthing works. The schematic shows a "connector" between the terminal block and the evaporator motor. The "connector" is not accessible from the inside or outside. I am guessing the connector was damaged from the high amps that the compressor was pulling (~25 amps)after the start capacitor failed. I guess I get a new fridge for Fathers Day.

David C.
denman  
#4 Posted : Sunday, June 17, 2012 8:58:10 AM(UTC)
denman

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You seem to know what you are doing so why not jiggery pokery a wire.

I would take it off the main thermostat and just drill a hole out the back of the fridge. If you hit a freon line there is no loss as you are going to scrap it anyway.
David C.  
#5 Posted : Sunday, June 17, 2012 1:12:06 PM(UTC)
David C.

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Posts: 3

Denman,
Went and looked at fridges and no one had one in stock that the me or the wife was interested in. I drilled a hole thru the back wall and ran a wire from the evap. motor to the terminal block by the water valve. I ran the wire thru a rubber hose to protect it fron the sharp edges. At least it will buy me some time to get one we want. I hate all of the new electronics they have on them and the high dollar water filters that you have to buy. I will do an autopsy on the old fridge when I get a new one, to find out were the wire lost connection. Thanks again.

David C.
Marcuswell  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, January 23, 2018 10:03:41 PM(UTC)
Marcuswell

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Posts: 2

I have a GE side by side model GSS20IEPCWW. I'm wondering if the condenser motor is bad that will shut down the control board because everything else tests ok on the board. and the compressor pins checked out ok. Weird thing is the evaporator fan constantly runs when refrigerator is plugged in. Any help will be much appreciated.
denman  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, January 24, 2018 6:34:56 AM(UTC)
denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

The following manual may help you.
https://drive.google.com/drive/f...iBNwRIV4NSEhtV0YxUTRrbTA

These units are a pain in the you know what.
Often if a fan goes it also takes out the control board.

It would be normal for the evaporator fan to run as the unit is trying to cool down the fresh food section but cannot due to the compressor not running.

You will have to check to see if te compressor is getting 120 volts.
If not then odds are that the control board is bad.
I would also replace the condenser fan just to be safe.

Not that just because the compressor coils check OK does not mean that the compressor is OK.
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