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LG Dryer Igniter Cycles, but rarely flames and I smell Gas
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Joined: 12/6/2017(UTC) Posts: 4
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Dryer is an LG DLG0332W, SN is 303Kw 00589 if it helps.
First symptom was that clothes were only barely luke warm after dryings so my first thought was the vent hose. Vent hose was chock full of lint so I cleaned it out and I ran the dryer unattached to get that out of the equation.
First try, after only detaching vent I felt hot air come from unit for about 5-15 seconds then it shut off. I immediately turned dryer off, disassembled and cleaned it thoroughly with shop vac. I also made sure the fuse switch on one of the thermostats wasn't popped, it wasn't.
Second try, dryer seemed to heat a little longer, cycling flame off after about 30-60 seconds, but then flame would not come back on. I also got a distinct smell of gas coming out of machine during the time of what I assume was the subsequent flame cycles. I disassembled again and checked continuity on the ignitor which I read as about 130 Ohms which seems to be okay from the manual.
Third try, I ran the dryer on high heat setting with the front panel plate off, holding a piece of plastic over door to keep an airflow seal. What I observe is as follows: - Dum begins to spin for about 5-10 seconds - Igniter lights up for about 10 seconds and then flame occurs - Flame lasts about 30-60 seconds I would say and then goes out - After about a minute or so igniter will relight for a short duration (maybe 5 or so seconds) just get to bright orange and then immediately start to go out with no flame - The igniter will cycle like this throughout the dryer cycle (I've only ever let it go on for about 2-5 cycles). It will catch flame on rare occasion, but usually just cycles on and off with no flame - I generally tend to get a strong smell of gas when the above occurs, I haven't pinpointed exactly when the gas comes out, but assume it is during the cycle misfires. This is weird to me, because if I smell gas and have a bright orange ignitor where is the flame? Maybe the timing is off?
At this point I have removed the drum to start testing components other than the igniter (which is the only one I could reach with drum on). I am a little unsure how to go about testing because per the manual a lot of the components need to be heated in order to test, and how do I achieve that? Can I run the machine with drum off? Heat Gun?
Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated. I tend to think it may be my gas valve, but I don't want to spend $120 on a part I don't need. Coils for this valve are not made, whole valve needs to be replaced. Could it even be my flame sensor, thermostats or thermistor? I've even read some far fetched posts about it possibly being a control board...:confused:
Thank you!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/6/2017(UTC) Posts: 4
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So just ran some resistance checks on all the components and this is what I am getting:
10.52 K-Ohm on Thermistor at around 70 degree temp (looks okay)
1.882 K-Ohm on Valve 1 terminal (looks okay) 1.882 K-Ohm on Valve 2 terminal (looks okay)
130 Ohms on Igniter (looks okay)
Flame Sensor closed (continuity) at room temp, opens with heatgun applied All Thermostats closed (continuity) at room temp, open with heatgun applied
To me I think all these readings look good, so I am at a loss. I will also test voltage on gas valve assembly. I am starting to get worried this may be a control board issue. Unfortunately the part is not available for purchase.....
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LG Dryer Igniter Cycles, but rarely flames and I smell Gas
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