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What are the voltage/signal readings going to water valve? Mine, one reads about 110v, the other reads about 14v. There two connectors on the valve.
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Joined: 2/2/2017(UTC) Posts: 422
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Those 2 valves should have 120v across each pair of the terminals when activated. They are simple solenoids. Think of them as 2 copies of the same part. They open at line (wall) voltage. They may share a common neutral if here are 3 wires coming to them and one looping between them. When checking voltage you need to avoid using chassis ground as neutral, just use the 2 wires that connect to the valve as that is what the valve uses.
Let's back up, why are you testing these?
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I replaced water valve and optical sensor in hope the ice maker will work again, but it's not still. I checked the ice maker module for physical/visible damage but found no sign. The main control board was replaced recently. I don't know if it's the ice maker is defected or some other parts.
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Joined: 2/2/2017(UTC) Posts: 422
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Ahhh... one of these ones. I've had some fun with diagnosing these. I wish I had a set answer, but they are finicky units and I've struggled with them a few times.
Is there ice in the ice mold? Or just empty?
Quick water valve check, switch the two plugs and trigger the water in door briefly. If the IM gets filled that valve is fine. It will overflow fast so be brief. If valve hums but no water enters freezer check for a frozen fill tube where it comes into IM
Optics and IM check. Remove right side optical board from freezer wall, jump the 2 middle wires on the freezer side of the harness; this bypasses optics and tells IM that ice is needed. It may need to be 15 deg to cycle. So wait and see if IM cycles and fills. If it cycles but doesn't fill it is probably your bad part.
While the optics are bypassed and door is "shut" you could also force the IM to cycle if it's the older type. Pull it out and pop square white cover off the end. If the plastic is brown and there is a bunch of holes spread out around the gear you can bypass the 15deg thermostat and it'll start turning. Use a length of stiff wire, either insulated or held with well insulated pliers and insert it in the T and H holes near bottom right, the contacts are pretty deep, you'll need 3/4-1" of wire inserted. The gear should begin to turn, let it turn for a few seconds until it clicks then pull wire out. It should progress on it's own at that point. If not reinsert the wire and see if you pulled it out to early. Again expect water if it can fill, 7 seconds of fill I think, it is a fair amount of water.
That's as far as I can go from memory. Good Luck
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Rank: Member
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Thanks! I will use your advice to do more diagnose when I get time.
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