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Hello folks!!
I got a panic call from my wife today that the oven broiler came on and displays an e2f3 fault code on the panel. Upon my arrival home, I confirmed the same. The oven is now off via main breaker and I'm at a loss to what to look at first. I'm mechaincally inlined and can most likely replace whatever is needed but no idea where to start. :confused: Any suggestions? The oven is almost 10 years old and has worked flawlessly until today.
And I DON'T want a new oven for xmas!! :D Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
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Here are your parts Parts for GR460LXLC - AppliancePartsPros.comYour model number seems to be missing the last digit so choose the correcr model from the Matching Model Numbers list. See the attachment for the tech sheet Your error is an overheat error so that is what you would expect. If the element was on full then odds are that the control board is shot, either the electronics controlling the relay are bad or the contacts of the relay are welded together. I would restore poser and check that the display looks normal re: the control board is not getting a command from the keypad to turn the element on. I doubt this is the problem because the control board does monitor the keypad for a shorted key. If the element was on but not on full. Leave the unit unplugged and remove the back. Check that a wire or connection has not shorted to the frame. The short would be in the wire from the element to the control board. If only part of the element is red hot, it could be that it has shorted to the support and then to the frame. |
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Looks like there are a lot of the same problem I had with relay contacts welded due to constant cycling of heat elements. Sounds like a design or part quality issue?
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I actually pulled the back panel off and disconnected the upper burner inside the oven, and everything is working again. I calibrated the oven and bumped the temp comp up 30 degrees. Oven still works, just takes longer to get to temperature. And Santa gets to keep the new oven for at least a little while longer. I checked prices on a new control board, and at $300 plus, I'll just hold off until spring and buy a new stove. Thanks for all the input!!
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Depending what you are cooking in the oven you may have problems as the temperature profile will not be correct with the broil element off.
They switch back and forth between the elements not only to give a faster pre-heat but also to maintain an even temperature inside the oven.
So things like a cake may burn in the pan but be raw in the center. |
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Broiler (upper heating element) turned on all of a sudden, full power, could not Cancel from control keypad. I disconnected one of the broiler contacts in the back so we could use the upper burners and the lower heating element (" bake") oven. The keypad looked 'normal' and the range worked fine. To diagnose the broiler problem I disconnected all connectors from the main electronic plate and then separated the circuit board from the front plate (the one with the buttons). The 'tape' connector from the front button plate to the circuit board was loose and just came out when I pulled on it. The imperfect electrical contact most likely was commanding the broiler to turn on. Once I wiped the tape connector, pushed it in the circuit board slot and secured it with the plastic lock (unable to pull it out). Everything works as supposed now, broiler does not come on automatically anymore.
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Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your diagnosis and repair with us. Your post was very illuminating and instructive.
Thanks again, and good luck with your oven.
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