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Whirlpool electric dryer GEQ9800LW1
Dryer had no heat
inlet and outlet vents are not clogged. I always keep them clean. Air blows hard
out the exhaust vent.
Tested Thermal Cut−Off was opened.
Replaced Thermal Cut−Off and Thermostat
Worked for three minutes, then Thermal Cut−Off opened again.
Replaced Heater Element
Worked for three minutes, then Thermal Cut−Off opened again.
Any help is appreciated.
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Here is a couple of things to check out...First, make sure the fuse and thermostat kit you are using is part number 279769, NOT 279816. They look the same, except the cut out fuse has different heat ratings. Yours requires a high temp fuse, and it should also have a red mark on the fuse indicating it is a high temp fuse. If you are using the correct part, then I would suggest making sure the blower housing isnt full of built up lint, and make sure the holes where the air goes into the lint trap are not clogged up. Hope this helps! Ken's Appliance Repair
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Originally Posted by: manfred63  Here is a couple of things to check out...First, make sure the fuse and thermostat kit you are using is part number 279769, NOT 279816. They look the same, except the cut out fuse has different heat ratings. Yours requires a high temp fuse, and it should also have a red mark on the fuse indicating it is a high temp fuse. If you are using the correct part, then I would suggest making sure the blower housing isnt full of built up lint, and make sure the holes where the air goes into the lint trap are not clogged up. Hope this helps! Ken's Appliance Repair Hello and thank you for your reply. I am using 3977394 Thermal Cut−Off and 3390291 Thermostat 250 F. The blower motor wheel seems to be spinning OK. When I spin it manually, it spins about 1 1/2 times, and the drum spins a couple of inches. There is some drag, I assume from the motor, and I guess from years of build up, but I don't think it is anything serious.
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Hello experts. I need some advise. I have taken my dryer apart and cleaned out the exhaust and the build up was minimal. Additionally I replaced the Thermister using a part number AP3919451. The dryer worked for one cycle and then the same symptom returned (no power to control board & light worked inside dryer when door open).
Researching forums and videos I was led to believe my control board was bad so I purchased one and plugged it in and there was no change. I boxed up the purchased unit to return it assuming it was defective, then decided with the original control board in to test it by jumping the blown Thermister. The dryer works jumping the wires bypassing the Thermister.
If the exhaust is not blown and the fan spins good when the dryer is running what would cause the thermister to blow 2x in my unit?
Your help is appreciated.
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I'm thinking you mean the thermal fuse? Whirlpool part # 3392519? A shorted element, stuck relay or bad airflow can cause it to open. If it heats in air dry it's the element or main board (which you ruled out). If it had been taking a very long time to dry it's the airflow.
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Originally Posted by: PNWDrew I'm thinking you mean the thermal fuse? Whirlpool part # 3392519? A shorted element, stuck relay or bad airflow can cause it to open. If it heats in air dry it's the element or main board (which you ruled out). If it had been taking a very long time to dry it's the airflow. Thank you PNWDrew. There is no blockage in the tube and exhaust and the fan moves air freely. When I got it to run last night I checked that to make sure it was not obstructed. It did work and seemed as though the button was shorted to get power. If you hit it a few times eventually the control interface would respond. Now nothing. To recap: 2 separate control boards tested on unit and it is not showing power at control interface. Jumped thermister (thermal fuse) and still not working. Is there something else it can be? Where would another open short prevent the interface from powering up? Thanks,
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Sorry. I misunderstood you initial description. The thermal fuse has no direct impact on user interface power. UI is powered by DC transformer on main board. Usually if thermal fuse is open the UI operates as normal, even counting down on timed dry, or stalling the timer on sensor cycles but not powering the motor.
That same transformer does power the thermistor next to thermal fuse. I believe it sends 5VDC, or close to it to UI. If UI is getting that 5VDC but not responding you are probably looking at a UI issue but I need to confirm the thermistor vs thermal fuse question, they are different parts with different functions.
The thermistor will read as open on some meters if tested for continuity instead of resistance; depending on the meter's threshold for continuity. Just to distinguish the 2 components on the blower duct: the thermal fuse has 2 blue wires, the thermistor has 2 thinner red ones. Please confirm which you are testing.
If you are getting weird button input issues you may have a stuck button on the UI itself. Most UIs will only accept one button press at a time, so if a button is stuck or otherwise appears to be pushed other button presses are ignored. See if any button feels or sounds (clicks) different than others. What you are pressing isn't the actual button, behind the plastic is a PCB with tiny surface mount components. Those PCB buttons can fail or stick.
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