I will try one last time at repairing this washer. I purchased the mode shifter - shaft assembly and a new belt. Aside from the motor itself this is the only other possibility. Hopefully the use of a new seal AND a new shaft will eliminate the leak.

Replacing the mode shifter, I started about 10:40am. The tub nut came off easily this time using the wrench. I figured it might seeing as it had only been on there about 10 days. The rest of the disassembly went smoothly until I reached the nut on the drive pulley. It was stubborn. I used a hammer, banging on a long ¾ inch wrench to loosen it up. The rest was uneventful. Once apart, I cleaned the bearing due to the leak I had had. I greased it lightly with auto wheel bearing grease. I was very careful when first installing the four bolts onto the mode shifter. I snugged them up per the video, then loosened, then torqued to 40, then 60 and finally to 90 inch pounds again like the video showed. The nut for the pulley I tightened the same way I loosened it, with a hammer. The new belt was a challenge to install; I followed the video and it worked well. It was as stated quite tight, a bit of force was needed to get it on. Not as easy as the video showed. I took a break at 12:15pm, restarted at 1pm. The rest of the assembly was uneventful though I was again very careful when installing the new seal. I worked very slowly, making sure it was seated properly. The tub nut I tightened again banging with a hammer. Sure wish I had that borrowed impact wrench. Also, don’t forget to reinstall the hose for the pressure valve. I did and had to take the top and control panel off to fix that error. I was finished at 1:50pm. Two hours 40 minutes start to finish. I tested first by filling the washer for a minute, then letting it drain and spin. No noise. I then washed some car rags, no leaks and no noise. Fingers crossed but it appears to be fixed. About $215.00 spent total including parts and tools. Follow the videos they are excellent sources of information.

Awesome. I love it when a repair works out. And under 3 hours for a non-pro being careful isn't a bad time at all. I've had them take 90-120 minutes when things go poorly and I've done more GE trans than I can count.
A trick for the belt should you ever have to do it again is to very tightly ziptie in place onto the pulley on one side in a few spots about 6 inches apart. I start on the left and rotate it clockwise so the ziptied spots go around the back and come out the right side.
Then slowly spin it until the belt tightens at the motor pulley. From there make sure it stays on both pulleys as you finish the rotation of the rear pulley. Your zipties will hopefully keep it on the big pulley and then break or cut off once it is fully on.
It is a pain no matter what.