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Dryer stopped in mid-cycle, timer stopped, and heating elements were off. Checked pulley, belt, fan, and motor - all seemed in place and clear of debris. When attempting to start, the motor hums but does not turn. Are there any other possible parts or components preventing the motor from turning or is this most likely a problem with the motor?
One more thing, over the past month or so, the dryer had been making a squealing/squeaking sound at startup and seemed to rattle and sputter for the first 20 or 30 seconds after startup.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/25/2012(UTC)
Posts: 248
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Most likely the motor is not able to start up or continue under load. The motor can be turned by hand but does not have the power to start it otherwise. You can expect that the bearings are the problem area. You should also check to see if the drum is rubbing anywhere which results in squealing. The front of the drum is supported by a plastic housing on most of these units with wear strips. If the plastic carrier is worn/damaged or the wear strips are gone it will be difficult and costly to repair
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/14/2017(UTC)
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Thanks and to access the motor I plan to unstack the dryer (we have stacked the washer/dryer as we lack space). Once I have room to access through the back and the top, I'll report anything new. I didn't notice any problems with the front of the drum rubbing, but will double check. Could there be a problem with the drum bearings? The drum spins, but it is difficult to turn by hand - I ask because it's just as difficult to turn the drum with the front panel attached as with it removed.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/25/2012(UTC)
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With the front support removed it will be difficult to turn the drum as the front of the drum rides on the support. The rear of the drum rides on rollers or in the case of a GE or Frigidaire on a central bearing. The motor should turn easily by hand when the belt is not in place. It can be tested w/o the drum in place by using a jumper for the door switch---some dryers use a broken belt switch also. When the drum is removed you can also evaluate the condition of the idler pulley. If it is worn badly it will make a lot of noise.
Again be careful as the 110 volt will give you a jolt but 220 volt can be fatal.
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