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zomalaja  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, January 3, 2017 7:51:36 PM(UTC)
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zomalaja

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Joined: 6/13/2012(UTC)
Posts: 6

Furnace stopped heating. Call for heat, draft fan runs but igniter never glows. Disconnected igniter, measured it at 72 Ohms. Voltage to igniter stays at a few volts. Disconnected all thermostat wires and ran self-test. Draft fan runs 10 sec, igniter glows 10 sec, 10 sec pause (humidifier), blower high, then blower low. I'm lost at this point and would sure appreciate any suggestions.
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zomalaja  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, January 4, 2017 2:40:09 PM(UTC)
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zomalaja

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Joined: 6/13/2012(UTC)
Posts: 6

Never mind, I figured it out myself.
Edit - As it turns out, I know what is wrong but not 100% sure of what part to replace.
The suspect part is a thermal switch that is attached to a small box that is attached to the flue chamber. There is an orange wire from the pressure switch to this thermal cutout and another orange wire on the other terminal of the thermal cutout that goes back into the control box. I believe the device is called the flue blockage safety switch. When I look on line I see at least two different cutout switches that look identical, one is set to 215 deg and the other to 350 deg. I am not sure which one to get. Here's a picture showing the part.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/o3gv17qf0c6ps8c/Switch-Detail.jpg
JeremyEPHVACR  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, January 18, 2017 4:26:05 AM(UTC)
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JeremyEPHVACR

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You are talking about safety rollout switches?
I would think they have a reset switch which would allow the unit to run again. These typically cut off for a reason.
It would be best to observe the system and ensure you do not have a flame rolling into the pilot area upon ignition or burn sequence termination. There is a chance that the rollout is bad, but I would want to be sure that it is bad, not being triggered by a inducer that is going, dirty burners, or a partially blocked flue etc. If that was the case, changing the rollout isn't going to fix your issue.

Another thing to remember is if it was really windy at the time it went out, could've just been backdraft, which is one of the reasons the rollout switches are there.

Is the switch re-settable? If it is, I would reset and simply observe. If it keeps cutting out I would change it, but only after eliminating other culprits. Sometimes these things happen and buying a part would not be necessary is all I'm thinking.
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