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Jenn-air Electric Range right-front element fails - hot indicator lamp stays on
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I also have a Jenn Air JES9900BAS with a non-functioning right front burner, I deliberately left it disconnected because the wiring harness to this burner had a blackened hole were the red pins join each other on the plastic modular clip that joins the two harnesses. Therefore I assume at a minimum I need to replace the two wiring harnesses, but I also wonder what caused this wire to overheat and/or short out. On the wiring diagram I believe this is on block P6 and C6 and the red 1 wire. Any suggestions on what parts I need to order? I can't find a part diagram to order the correct wiring harnesses and I am afraid I may also need to order a control unit, but perhaps that could wait? I've already replaced the control panel and cook top to fix other issues...
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Originally Posted by: davejl  I also have a Jenn Air JES9900BAS with a non-functioning right front burner, I deliberately left it disconnected because the wiring harness to this burner had a blackened hole were the red pins join each other on the plastic modular clip that joins the two harnesses. Therefore I assume at a minimum I need to replace the two wiring harnesses, but I also wonder what caused this wire to overheat and/or short out. On the wiring diagram I believe this is on block P6 and C6 and the red 1 wire. Any suggestions on what parts I need to order? I can't find a part diagram to order the correct wiring harnesses and I am afraid I may also need to order a control unit, but perhaps that could wait? I've already replaced the control panel and cook top to fix other issues... Davej, You may find it easier to cut the red wires at the plastic connector, splice them and solder them together and insulate the connection with shrink wrap insulation, but you can order the main harness Part number: [AP4100556
and the Part number: AP5736645
right switch harness, if you prefer. But that's a lot to do, and not replace the "custom" infinite switch Part number: AP6016528
and check the surface element for any visual damage or shorted element ribbons. Shorts and arcing inside a connector are usually due to a high amp draw and/or loose or dirty connection that's why you need to check the element ribbons and replace the control switch. We've attached a copy of the tech data sheet to help you out. Good Luck,
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Originally Posted by: danpan Bottom line, my problem is solved. I decided to buy the Infinite Switch as Joe M. from the APP tem suggested earlier. I installed this morning and the custom burner works again. Taking my time to ensure that I do not brake anything else in the process of doing it, the installation took about 30 minutes.
Here is how I did it on my electric range Jenn-Air JES9900BAS:
1. Turned power off at the Circuit Breaker.
2. Removed Oven door. (Opened door about 20 degrees and lifted it up)
3. Removed 4 hex screws from the control panel. It requires a 1/4 in socket. These 4 screws are visible after you open/remove the Oven door. (There are other Philips stainless steel (SS) screws holding the SS panel clad. I did not need to remove them)
4. I installed one of the oven racks at the highest setting with a 4 inch cardboard box on it (for extra height) to allow me to put down the control panel once all screws are removed. (Thanks for the pointer Joe M.)
5. Holding on to the panel, (so it does not drop by itself) I removed the last 2 side screws from the control panel. (One Philips head screw on each side of the panel) Gently I guided it down and out and put the control panel on the cardboard box.
6. Before I removed the connectors to the switch, I looked and noted how far they were seated in. I also noted the color and orientation of each connector. Removed the connectors to the infinite switch. It is a good idea to take a digital picture before removing the connectors. (It seemed to me that it would be hard to reverse the connectors, however, better safe than sorry.)
7. Removed the front right knob and the 2 Philips screws, behind the knob, holding the infinite switch. Removed the old infinite switch.
8. Reversing the process, I installed the new switch by using the 2 Philips screws from step 7, and reconnecting the 2 electric connectors from step 6. Make sure the connectors are properly seated in the back of the infinite switch.
9. Re-installed the control panel using the 2 side screw from step 5 and then the 4 screws from step 3.
10. Carefully, not to drop it, I reinstalled the Oven door and closed it.
11. After, checking again to make sure that everything was reinstalled and my electric range was the same way it was before I started the job, I proceeded to turn the power back on.
Total success. The custom dual element worked again like when it was brand new.
I would like to thank Joe M from the APP team, again, for his invaluable coaching and help.
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Jenn-air Electric Range right-front element fails - hot indicator lamp stays on
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