I have a Sharp R-1480 over-the-range microwave. It works great with the exception that several years ago the hood lights stopped working even after replacing the light bulbs. I decided to try to fix the issue which I thought was related to the sockets. Luckily the supplier mailed the wrong part. Before reordering the part, I decided to check the wiring for power. Using a voltage tester, I touched the leads to the wires connected to the socket and the tester showed there was power. I got the same result when touching the leads to the metal connecters inside the socket. A friend suggested I might have a contact issue, so I disconnected the plug from the outlet and the wires from the sockets, and using a flat-head screwdriver proceeded to retract the metal contacts located at the top and side of the socket. After reconnecting and securing the sockets, I installed brand new GE 25w T7 Bulb Type E17 Base light bulbs. I plugged the microwave back into the socket and pressed the "Work Light" and "Night Light" keys on the touch pad and nothing. I rechecked for power using the voltage tester and now there is no power to either sockets. The bulbs did not burn out and the microwave continues to work as before. Based on my very limited knowledge, if I had to guess I would have to assume that I blew a fuse.

Question 1) Is my assumption correct? If yes, then
Question 2) I'm assuming I used the incorrect light bulb. The manual only says to use a 30w incadescent light bulb. I did encounter a slight resistance when screwing in the bulb, and figured it was related to getting past the metal contacts I retracted. There was nothing to indicate that I was using the incorrect bulb. I had no issues securing the bulb. What bulb should I have used?
Question 3) If I did blow a fuse, where is it located? How do I access it? What size/type fuse should I get for a replacement?

From reading various articles I understand that just unplugging the appliance will not protect me from getting shock. I could also use help locating and discharging the high voltage capacitor.

Thank you so much for any assistance!

Brad

ThatGuy,

Thanks so much for the quick reply. Based on your comment re: SSR, I disconnected all the everything from the control panel and took it out to look at it in better light. See the attached pics to what I found. Looks like I did fry the SSR. I believe I have only 2 options....1) Leave as is as everything appears to be working or 2) Buy a new control board. Would you agree?