Sorry in advance for such a long post.

1.) Freezer not cooling properly. Everything in Freezer thawed. Freezer and Refrigerator were about 40-45*

2.) Replaced starter relay and overload protector

2nd time it's been replaced. Last replaced about 8 years ago

Original: Starter relay and overload protector combined in one unit
I kept this original unit
3 terminals: 1, 4, and bottom to overload protector
Did not see how this was connected, assumed:
Connector for 2 white wires (1 to run capacitor, 1 to compressor fan
harness) to #1
Blue wire to #4

1st Replacement (part 2261637)
2 terminals: 1 and bottom to overload protector
Spot for #4, but there was not spade connector protruding
At first, I thought it had broken off. However, after careful inspection
it just wasn't there
Connector for 2 white wires (1 to run capacitor, 1 to compressor fan
harness) to #1
Blue wire to hanging loose (other end to run capacitor)
Is it normal for the blue wire to be disconnected from the starter
relay?
It had been working fine for years in this manner

2nd Replacement: around 10/29/2016 (Part 8201799)
4 terminals: 1, 2, 3, and bottom to overload protector
Connector for 2 white wires (1 to run capacitor, 1 to compressor
fan harness) to #2
Blue wire to #3
Plastic Terminal cover on #1
Should I have left the blue wire disconnected from the starter
relay?

3.) At first I thought I noticed that the fan would be off while the compressor was on. I'm starting to think compressor was off, but I caught it while it was still warm

a.) The fan and compressor seemed to be in sync more often--whenever on or off. This is what leads me to believe the initial observation of fan being off while compressor was on might have been incorrect

b.) The problem is that they seem to be off too long.

i.) The fan and compressor seem to turn off when the freezer temp
goes to -10*F
- at the default "5" setting;
- the fan inside the freezer is still running when the condenser
fan and compressor are off;
- I've checked the surface temp of the condenser, and have seen
it as high as 136*F before it turns off).

ii.) The condenser fan and compressor are off outside of the defrost
cycle (I took a sharpie and marked a spot on the defrost timer.
- The 1st click (defrost on?) occurs around the 11 o-clock
position and the 2nd click (defrost off?) is at about the
12 o'clock position).
- The freezer could be anywhere between 20 and 50 degrees F
before I manually do something to get it started
(it just depends how long it had been off before I did
something).
- The condenser fan and compressor do not come back on until I:
a.) do something as simple as opening the Freezer or
Refrigerator door, other times,
b.) I'll manually reset the defrost cycle (unplug, set freezer
to off, wait 30 secs, plug, wait 8 secs, set freezer to
"5"), or
c.) advance the defrost timer to the 2nd click.

4.) When I first thought it might be a fan issue, I attempted to test the resistance of the condenser fan motor
- unplugged the harness from the condenser fan motor
- set digital multimeter to "ohm" (auto ranging)
- placed a terminal in the left and right terminals of the fan (ignored
middle terminal, assuming it is the ground)
- the reading showed: 0.224K Ohms

Possibly tonight, I'll open up the back panel of the freezer to see if the coils have an even coating of frost.

Any suggestions what else to check?

11/8/2016 Additional info

After work last night, freezer was off again and at 45*F. I unscrewed the back panel in the freezer so I can open it later and look at the coils. I opened and closed the freezer door a couple of times and the compressor and compressor fan started up again. Waited a few hours and opened the back panel inside the freezer and saw an even coat of frost on all of the coils. It was running through the time I went to sleep.

This morning, freezer was ~40*F again. I unplugged from the wall. Removed the Starter relay and overload protector, and used a multitester to test the ohms. Many wires, copper coils, and the starter relay in the way, so condenser prongs were a little tricky to get the probes in without touching something else...and to keep steady on the prongs while the multimeter was reading.
Start/Common = ~4 ohms
Run/Common = ~3 ohms
Start/Run = ~ 6 ohms