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Trying to troubleshoot my Kenmore HE2 Electric dryer.
Dryer runs, but produces no heat.
Inspected and cleaned exhaust, which was only slightly dirty. I clean this every couple months. Cleaned interior/parts
With a digi meter, I checked input voltage at fuse box, outlet. 240v Tested OK
Tested continuity on thermal fuse on blower, High limit thermostat and fuse on element case and Heating element itself. All check OK with good continuity. :(
Is there any test I can perform on main control board? Should I order a board?
Any other ideas and tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks JPC
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Rank: Member
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Thermistor WP8577274 on the exhaust tested at 11k ohms with multimeter at about 72ºf . Rated at 10k at 77ºf.
Hmmm? Am I missing something?
Expert Opinions welcome.
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Rank: Member
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I pulled the main control board. Checked for obvious discoloration/ scorched components. Nothing apparent.
Cleaned the PCB and checked for cold solder joints or loose components. Still nothing obvious.
I'm beginning to lose my manhood here, as the wife is doubting my ability and threatening to buy a new one. NO!!:eek:
anyone? A lil help?
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Rank: Member
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Fire the old girl up and trace power. First check is for 240 vac at the element. The voltage is divided when it goes thru the unit. One leg of 120 vac runs thru the t-stat/limit and the other goes thru the centrifical switch in the motor. If 240 isn't present at the element, shut everything off and unplug unit. Disconnect wires from element and then retest. Determine which wire going to the element has 120 vac. Work backwards on the dead leg until you find where it loses the power. Do you have a wiring diagram for the unit? It helps a lot in making short cuts obvious, such as testing the power out of the board to the element. Keep in mind that if the wires are connected at the heater and you try to test 120 vac, it will back feed thru the element and give you false readings. Let me know if there is anything else I can help with!
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Rank: Member
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Your input is much appreciated cbmserviceguy.
I don't have a wiring diagram. I will try to locate one. If its available online , I'll find it. Was hoping for the simple quick fix, but this is never my luck.
I will perform testing as you described and see where it leads me. I was trying to avoid working on the unit hot (with power), but I am confident it should be no problem.
I am an electronics tech by trade, mostly low voltage dc (wired/wireless communications).:o However when I open up something I am not familiar with, it sometimes takes a knowledgeable nudge to point me in the right direction. Even if it is as obvious as tracing loss of voltage or basic troubleshooting steps.
Thanks again, I'll update when testing is complete.
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Rank: Member
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No problem. Feel free to post any questions or requests for further information as they come up. I'll help however I can. The wiring diagram is typically located behind the control panel or taped to the bottom of the lid. Good luck and keep us updated!
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the heads up on the location of the diagram. Fortunately it is a troubleshooting/tech sheet as well.
I followed several steps including the self diagnostic feature. Testing components as needed.
I followed TEST #3 -HEATER TEST. I measured resistance from the thermal cutoff to the heater. 10 ohms-- CORRECT
The next step, #5 reads as follows
"If no open circuit detected, Measure the resistance between P14-3(red-white wire) and P14-6(red-white wire) at the machine control board"
"-> if 5-15k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics"
I measured approx. 12k ohms at wires while connected to PCB,
12k ohms on wires disconnected from PCB
open at PCB without wires
Just looking for verification that my tests of the wires, while connected or disconnected, are the correct readings to determine fault?
Thanks again JPC
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Rank: Member
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Sure sounds like it to me. Time to get a new board!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/27/2016(UTC)
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Much thanks again cbm. Ordering a board. I might even try troubleshooting the defective one if I can find a schematic and get free time on the bench at work.
Of course it is one of the most expensive parts in the dryer, but much cheaper than a new dryer!:D
Thanks APP, forums, chat, techs and all here who contribute. Great site, Videos, and info. Most helpful.
I will update when repairs are complete, for anyone who needs reference in the future.
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