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Kenmore Elec. Dryer - 2 Thermal Fuses in 1 week
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Dryer is a few years old, but new to me (just bought the house.)
Day 1, wife says dryer is dead. Not having time, I checked the breaker and called a local repair guy. $90 and a thermal fuse later, it's back up & running.
Had a guy come and clean out the vent. There was air coming out of it, perhaps not 100% of the strength as out the back of the dryer, but I wouldn't consider it restricted...(But I will check again more thoroughly for obstructions tonight.)
Blew another thermal fuse last night after a few loads. I'm told it wasn't on high heat, only medium. Now I'm wondering if there's perhaps another issue here... Thanks for any help.
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There are a number of reasons for the fuse to blow. 1. Obstructed vent system or poor air movement. The fan is suppose to move 115 - 125 cubic feet of air per minute. The vent system should be open enough (clear of obstructions) to allow at least 150 CFM of air flow. 2. Your cycling thermostat isn't operating properly. Whirlpool WP3387134 Dryer Cycling Thermostat - AppliancePartsPros.com This thermostat is suppose to allow the discharge air to reach only 155 degrees F and shut down until it cools off to 130 degrees and then click back on. The setting of heat to medium causes the internal bias heater to click on fooling the thermostat (or heating it faster to the click off point) so as to effect a lower drum temperature. If the cycling thermostat isn't shutting off the heating element. that can blow your fuse. 3. A shorted heating element. If the heating element is shorted (the wire is touching the wall of the heat can) then the heating element will actually stay on albeit with 110/120 but stay on none the less. There are other causes but these are the main culprits.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/29/2016(UTC)
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Hmm. Think I'll check the heating element also. Just noticed that after the thermal fuse blew, the motor wouldn't start but the heating element would still glow after hitting Start...
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Yup Yup yup.... Unplug it! The heating element or a wire is shorted out against the metal heater can. If this is true please replace it. Trying to move the element away from the metal will work for but a moment then the element will burn out and you will have to replace it anyway. Here is your part Whirlpool 279838 Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element - AppliancePartsPros.com
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/29/2016(UTC)
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Just a quick update. Haven't had a chance to take another look, but by coincidence, the repair guy who replaced the first thermal fuse called to see how things were working. He came back to take another look, and is convinced that the non-standard PVC pipe used to vent the dryer is causing the thermal fuses to blow.
But I"m not so sure. I feel good air coming out, certainly nothing I'd consider to be obstructed to the point where an emergency protection device needs to blow. Anyway, we reverted to the "indoor elec. dryer vent kit" for the time being to see.
But I've noticed a few weird things. Anyone got a wiring diagram or schematic for this type of dryer?
1) When set to Air Only, warm/hot air is vented.
2) When the main timer dial is turned from off to some number, the heating element is energized and begins to glow. This is before the "start" button is pressed, so no drum or blower yet... (Quite disconcerting.)
Will take a look at the element as soon as possible. Any other suggestions?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Again very likely a shorted heating element. Please see item 3 in my previous reply.
To test unplug the machine from power. Remove the back. Run a continuity test from the heating element terminals one at a time and the heater outer case.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/29/2016(UTC)
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Looks like an issue with the heating element. Removed it and found that the uppermost coil of the element was touching the metal housing behind it. Looks like the element frame is warped/bent at the top, and the metal behind it has some scorch marks.
So looks like the problem has been found. What would cause a heating element to melt and warp like that? Should I be replacing the operating t-stat etc. at the same time?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Kenmore Elec. Dryer - 2 Thermal Fuses in 1 week
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