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I have replaced: 1) heating coil (because since I was there...etc.) 2) all of the sensors a) Dryer Thermal cutoff fuse b) Dryer High Limit Thermostat c) Dryer Operating Thermostat 3) Dryer Timer 4) 220 Breaker in home breaker box. Dryer was working fine, then one day it would not function. I replaced the thermal cutoff fuse, High Limit thermostat and a bad dryer operating thermostat. Put it all back together and everything worked fine. About six months later, the dryer was not drying clothes but ran fine other than that. I then replaced the heating element (10 years old), plus a bad dryer thermal cutoff fuse. I put it back together and when I turn the timer dial it flips the breaker before I can make a full turn. I then replaced the dryer timer, same problem. I then replaced the breaker in my breaker box, same problem. Next I: 1) Ohm-ed out the heater coil (10.6 ohms) - thought it should be higher, but from I read it is ok. 2) Checked the resistance between the element and ground. No short. 3) checked each of the sensors and all were closed to allow power flow. 4) Next I unplugged the start button, temperature control, one end of the heating element, the motor and removed the moisture control board. Still flips the break when I turn the timer clockwise 360 degrees. It always seem to flip the breaker when it get to the end of touch up dry.    LTE5243DQ3.pdf (702kb) downloaded 33 time(s).I am at a loss. The only things I can think of left, would be the outlet plug and damage to the pigtail. Anyone else? File Attachment(s): captkos attached the following image(s):
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So start off from the end and work back. Unplug the power cord. Then remove the terminal block cover and there check for continuity between L1 and neutral then L2 and neutral then between L1 and L2 (also between each and ground) with the timer in the off position. Then move the timer to the (cool down less than 5 minutes) position shown in your photo. (great pic by the way, your wiring seems to be in the proper positions) Now repeat the continuity tests. Determine where the dead short is located. My suspicion is from L1 and ground because in the cool down position the power to the heating element is turned off. When you find out let us know. The attached pic denotes a three prong plug outlet, yours may be four which adds a green or bare wire to ground. brobriffin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Member
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Ok..
I put everything back together.
I Ohmed:
L1->L2 - Open
L1->White -> Short
L1->GND -> Short
L2 ->White -> Open
L2 -> GND -> Open
I looked at my schematic (which I missed the first 5 times I was in there), I unplugged one side of the thermal fuse and the short went away. The next thing I see that it could be is the belt switch. If the belt switch is extremely defective could it cause this kind of short? If it is a belt switch, how hard is it to replace? Can it be done (easily) without taking the motor out?
Am I heading the correct direction, any additional thoughts?
Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/11/2016(UTC)
Posts: 11
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Ok..
I put everything back together.
I Ohmed:
L1->L2 - Open
L1->White -> Short
L1->GND -> Short
L2 ->White -> Open
L2 -> GND -> Open
I looked at my schematic (which I missed the first 5 times I was in there), I unplugged one side of the thermal fuse and the short went away. The next thing I see that it could be is the belt switch. If the belt switch is extremely defective could it cause this kind of short? If it is a belt switch, how hard is it to replace? Can it be done (easily) without taking the motor out?
Am I heading the correct direction, any additional thoughts?
Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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I wouldn't know unless the belt switch is like cracked open and touching metal somehow. Anything is possible I suppose. Here is the however. For a dead short (enough to trip a circuit breaker) there must be a wire or part conducting electricity touching, rubbing, abraded in direct contact with the machine. Now if you look at the schematic I believe that the line going thru the thermal fuse and the belt switch are ground or neutral return. So that would make sense if you disconnected the thermal fuse. But my question is if you don't have the machine turned on why is there a complete circuit??/
This only started to occur after changing the heating element (10 years old) and the thermal cut off fuse. Sense we can rule out very likely its not the heating element because its not in play with the timer in that position. It must be a wire or part in the thermal fuse line. It may be a defective thermal fuse. More investigative work in your future.
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OK, I feel like an idiot.. I mistook a symptom for a cause. I tried to check the switch for continuity but I could not reach both sides. But I notice, which I missed before, that I did not get a short when I have the dryer apart and was testing it. The answer why was simple upon additional thought. The belt switch WAS working and when the tension was off, the switch disconnected the power line and thus masked the down steam short cause. So, I jumpered around the switch, and the short came back. Now it seems I am at the motor. I have attached a photo of where I jumpered around the switch by unplugging one wire and moving another. Now that the short is back, I decided to free spin the motor, when I do the resistance changes and fluctuates between about 2.0 and 2.6 ohms (which seems not good). My jumper (see attached photo) consists of removing the wire C from position B, (leaving it hanging) and them removing wire from position A and moving and attaching to position B. The black block attached to the motor, is it a starter relay of some type that can be replace or is it part of the motor? I am thinking at this point, my motor is bad? I have already replaced the a lot of the down stream parts. I disconnect my thermal fuse again, ohmed across it (it was very low ohms, which is good), I ohmed each side to ground (open). So I am going to say it is good. I unplugged the start button, the buzzer and temperature control console switches to ensure they were not shorted (they had no effect on L1-GND short). Motor? or what next? captkos attached the following image(s):
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Unplug the wire harness from the motor and see if you have a short. The interesting thing to me is it only happens when in cool down mode. Which changes nothing really except that the power to the heating element from L1 is shut down. Power to the motor is constant whether in heating or cool down mode. Not to mention you haven't even completed a circuit so to speak because you haven't pushed the start button. It very well may be a short in the motor or the centrifugal switch on the motor. You said you checked for resistance when spinning the motor. Try this after taking the wire harness off the motor and checking for the short circuit then try checking for a complete circuit on the pins on the motor. The two outside pins that the large red wires connect to should be open. Then see if you any complete circuits between any of the other connections and the large red wires. None of the smaller wires connections should show continuity with either of the red wire connection.
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I am going to revisit all of my measurements for shorts involving the timer.
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Ok L1 -> Ground Short.
Ok, Correction. The short seems to be there anytime the timer has the motor activated. So when I ohm L1-> GND, I unplug the thermal fuse and it stops, plug it back, move to the belt switch, unplug it stops, plug it back an it goes into the motor. I have taken the plug off of the motor and homed the motor windings and the both come back about 2.1ohms. When I unplug the motor connector the L1-GND goes away. Is my motor bad or the pluggable drive motor switch attached to the motor bad?
I am at a loss as to what to check next. I am outside the range on the low side for my motor windings, but I am not sure that is bad.
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If there are no visible signs of abraded wires touching metal near the motor, then I suspect your motor and or the centrifugal switch are the culprit. When the timer is turned to any on position power is being sent to pin #2 on the motor terminal (the black wire) but should not be conducting a circuit until the centrifugal switch is activated by the running motor. To further understand this watch the video in this link. Bill is demonstrating what happens inside that switch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaaqRXQERVc
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