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jconkl02  
#1 Posted : Monday, May 9, 2016 9:47:22 AM(UTC)
jconkl02

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My son's dryer has an issue where the timer will not advance through a cycle and turn off. It seems to run fine and dry the clothes, but it doesn't turn off. After doing some internet investigating I went to his house to take a look. I had found a site that suggested to look at the Timer Motor. This is how they suggested I test the Timer Motor:

Set your ohmmeter to the R x 1 setting. Take each probe and touch it to one wire. A normal reading for most dryers is in the 2000 to 3000 ohms range. Try to locate a schematic for your dryer. It should be in one of the service areas of your dryer or in the owner's manual. This schematic should indicate the proper resistance reading for your specific timer motor. If the reading you receive from testing your timer's motor differs greatly from the range presented here, then you should replace your timer motor or the entire timer assembly.

When I followed these suggestions all i read on my meter was opens. I clipped my leads to various terminals and then turned the timer through all of cycles and saw no difference. I checked my leads just to make sure I was getting proper readings.

I don't know anything about fixing dryers, but I get suspicious when all I read are opens. Can someone confirm that I am looking in the right direction and confirm if it's likely that a bad Motor Timer would read open across all of it's terminals?

Thanks
Jason
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thorning  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 11, 2016 3:19:48 PM(UTC)
thorning

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A better way to test this is to remove the motor from the timer assembly and hook it up to a 110 volt source. If you can do this safely put a piece of paper over the plastic gear and mark it with a felt tip marker. It should slowly turn the shaft . Dont look for it to turn quickly it might take 45 minutes or more to make one revolution. A common problem for the timer motor is for the plastic gears to strip out in a portion of the rotation. The other possibility is a set of burned contacts inside the timer itself. CAUTION. Some timer motors are 110 volt and a few are 220 volt. They are marked on the surface.
jconkl02  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 11, 2016 4:15:56 PM(UTC)
jconkl02

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Originally Posted by: thorning Go to Quoted Post
A better way to test this is to remove the motor from the timer assembly and hook it up to a 110 volt source. If you can do this safely put a piece of paper over the plastic gear and mark it with a felt tip marker. It should slowly turn the shaft . Dont look for it to turn quickly it might take 45 minutes or more to make one revolution. A common problem for the timer motor is for the plastic gears to strip out in a portion of the rotation. The other possibility is a set of burned contacts inside the timer itself. CAUTION. Some timer motors are 110 volt and a few are 220 volt. They are marked on the surface.

Thanks for the help. A couple of questions.
1) If the motor itself is the culprit, is that part readily available?
2) If the motor is not available, are the stripped gears something that can be replaced by someone with tiny rework experience?
3) Same question as the last but for the burned contacts in the timer.

I would much rather spend time tinkering and fixing the motor or timer than go out and drop $80 - $100 on a new assembly.

Thanks,
Jason
thorning  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, May 11, 2016 4:37:09 PM(UTC)
thorning

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Posts: 248

The internal parts of a timer assembly are not available for purchase on any timer I have worked on . The same applies to the motors.
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