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My Roper refrigerator died so I searched and found another excellent forum - this one. After a search, I decided to check out the starter. Pulled the back cover, plugged it in, fan works and the starter clicks. I can hear the compressor try to start but then it clicks off.
I pulled the starter and shook it and it rattles. A previous post indicates this is a sign that it is bad. So, having nothing to lose, I took it apart. There are a pair of contacts and a piece that slides up and down. I cleaned the contacts, re-installed and had the same problem.
So, my questions:
[LIST=1]
Is the any way to repair the starter?
Assuming it can't be repaired, can I be pretty sure this is the problem? It looks like it is going to cost about $70 and I'd really hate to just throw that money away. That money would go a little ways toward a replacement unit.[/LIST]Thanks for any help.
Tom
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If your overload klixon is separate from the start relay, you can replace the start relay with a solid state unit IC1 for about $10 plush shipping, if not use the combo PRO41, about $20.
Electrically, make sure the one power wire goes to the terminal marked run and this goes to the compressor pin with the lowest resistance The klixon goes to the common pin, usually on top.Measure the resistance from the top common pin to both bottom pins, lowest resistance is run winding.
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Originally Posted by: richappy  If your overload klixon is separate from the start relay, you can replace the start relay with a solid state unit IC1 for about $10 plush shipping, if not use the combo PRO41, about $20. My setup is two piece. Is this the replacement part you are referring to: Part Details - GEMLINE Relay, part number: IC1 Any way to verify whether it is the starter relay or the Klixon overload? Originally Posted by: richappy Electrically, make sure the one power wire goes to the terminal marked run and this goes to the compressor pin with the lowest resistance The klixon goes to the common pin, usually on top.Measure the resistance from the top common pin to both bottom pins, lowest resistance is run winding. I'll do the resistance checks when I get home this evening. Thanks again for all the help. Tom
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Klixon overloads very rarely fail. This overload saves the compressor from burnout and it is matched carefully to the compressor.
Yes you have the right part.
Also, your fridg. shows NO run capacitor, but check your schematic and verify. If there is one, it must be wired between the run and start pins.
Good luck.
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Originally Posted by: richappy Yes you have the right part. Do you know of any alternate part number/source for the IC1 part (since it is out of stock here)? I called the local appliance part store and all they could give me was the Roper part. If I could have gotten the part today I would have just bought it and plugged it in. But since I couldn't I went ahead and checked resistance. Since I have a crappy meter I couldn't get actual values but I do have resistance across all pins and no resistance to ground so I assume the compressor is probably good. Originally Posted by: richappy Also, your fridg. shows NO run capacitor, but check your schematic and verify. If there is one, it must be wired between the run and start pins.
Good luck. I have no schematic but I took a couple of pictures for reference. The first pic is the relay and the Klixon. The second pic is the unit I'm working on. The third pic is my basement fridge which is also a Roper but I think it is a couple years newer. I believe this one has the run capacitor you speak of. I was hoping I could swap parts to test the kitchen one and while it looks possible, it's certainly not a direct swap. Anyway, thanks again for the help. If you know of an alternate source, please let me know, otherwise I'll have to decide on whether to wait for the IC1 to come in or spend an extra $15 for the PRO41. Tom File Attachment(s): tombat attached the following image(s):
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Bad news, you have a current activated start relay, they VERY rarely fail!!
You probably have a bad compressor.
You can try the downstairs start relay and see if it works, but I doubt it!
You can try a 3n1 hard start device, but sometimes they just burn out the start winding within a few weeks, particularly if the fridg. has the newer, low hp compressor.
Also, carefully look at the old start relay. The pin that connects to the coil wire is the run winding.
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Awwww - just when I think I'm going to get out of this for $20, you hit me with the curve.
I have to agree with you on the start relay. I've had it apart twice now and I just can't see how it would fail. I thought maybe the contacts were too worn, like a Toyota starter. I was playing around with it last night and put the probes in the run and start holes, flipped it over, and got resistance. It's a pretty simple device.
I also plugged everything in again last night and this time I didn't even hear the compressor try to start - just the relay and overload clicking.
I'm going to take your word on this since you're the expert and I'm going to start shopping for a new fridge. I just wouldn't have felt right tossing it out without at least doing a little troubleshooting. I guess seven years for a $400 dollar fridge isn't horrible.
Thanks again for the help.
Any recommendations on what model to buy?
Tom
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I like Whirlpool refrigerators, I think your Roper is a cheap Whirlpool. Also the cheap GE fridges aren't bad either, just stay away from other brands.
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Originally Posted by: richappy I like Whirlpool refrigerators, I think your Roper is a cheap Whirlpool. Also the cheap GE fridges aren't bad either, just stay away from other brands. ... what do you think about Maytag?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I have an old Maytag myself but I dislike rewarding Maytag for their recently shoddy appliances.
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