I have a GE electric range (model # JBP78BY2BB). The other day the baking element decided to have a meltdown. I am picking up a replacement this Friday. In the mean time, I removed the old element and secured the yellow and black wires that were connected to the element. The wires are separated and I have wrapped the leads with electrical tape. It is my understanding that I should be able to still use the stove even though the oven is out of commission, however when I plug the appliance in I get no indication that it is on. The clock is not on and when I turn on a burner the "hot" light does not illuminate on the panel. The burners do come on, but there is nothing on the panel. I am hoping that the missing baking element is the cause and that when I replace the element all of the pretty lights will work again. Can anyone confirm my theory? Thanks in advance.

denman,

I have replaced the baking element, but it is not coming on and the control panel/idiot lights are still not operating.

Steps that I have taken:

I flipped the breaker slowly several times with no result. I was not able to a get reading at the receptacle across L1 and L2 or from Neutral to L1 or L2. I'm wondering if my leads were too thin and I just wasn't getting good contact.

However, I did measure voltage at the terminal strip and had 240v when measuring from the red or the white wire to the black wire.

[IMG]https://goo.gl/eT0c3y[/IMG]

There is also 240v from the red wire of the terminal strip to the yellow wire of the baking element and to the blue wire of the broiling element.

I took a picture of the wiring and then removed the Electronic Control Board (AP2632445) to visually inspect it for obvious signs of component damage (ie, blown capacitors or resistors). If the problem is the ECB, I feel confident that I could test it if I had pinout or something to tell me what voltage I should have at the 5 terminals on the board.

[IMG]https://goo.gl/91y0xp[/IMG]

Stop me if I am going down the wrong track.

Thanks

However, I did measure voltage at the terminal strip and had 240v when measuring from the red or the white wire to the black wire.
Something is very strange here.
If I understand the above
black to red is 240 volts
Black to white is 240 volts.

There is something wrong because
White should be Neutral
Black should be L1
Red should be L2
So
white to black should be 120 volts
white to red should be 120 volts
black to red should be 240 volts

See the attachment for a tech sheet.
It is for a JBP78DD unit but it is the only one that I can find that is close to yours.
Also the quality of it is pretty poor but is the best I can find.

You do not get 120 anywhere and that is what is needed to run the control boards and lights.

I still think that you have lost Neutral.
You see the 240 on the black to white (l1 to Neutral) because the L2 (red) voltage is feeding through a high resistance in the unit so you see the voltage but there is no current behind it.

Yes you probably could not measure the voltage at the plug because the meter lead prongs were too short.

I would flip the breaker off and remove the receptacle from the wall.
Make sure nothing can short out then turn the power on and measure the voltage at the receptacle connectors.

If you are skittish about doing this get an electrician in.

Messing with 240 volts is and should be a scary thing!!!

denman, you were right. Lost neutral. I hope fixing this is not too complicated.