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Hoping someone can help. I recently purchased an inlet valve replacement, part 9744468, for the (old) dishwasher above.
The old inlet valve stopped opening, though the rest of the cycle seemed to run, so I thought replacing it would be straightforward. I checked the wire harness, and it has 120V when it the valve should be open.
When I connect the new inlet valve to the dishwasher and try to start the cycl, the dishwasher immediately seems to turn off. Tried it a number of times, thought I heard the valve make noise once or twice, but most times nothing happens but the lights go out on the panel.
I reconnected the old valve to the electric harness, and the dishwasher still stays on (though that valve doesn't make any noise when it should be triggered to open).
Did I get a dud valve? Is it possible the electrical changed? The old valve part number is 9743559, and I've seen the one I ordered online as a valid replacement, so I'm stumped.
Thanks in advance
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You seem to be missing a few digits at the end of the model number so you will have to choose the correct one from the Matching Model numbers section. Parts for KUDS24SE - AppliancePartsPros.comI used the KUDS24SEBL0 unit. The valves are probably the same in all units but I am not 100 % sure of this. The 9743559 number does come up in the cross reference of valves the below replaces. It may well be that the valve you received is defective. Click on the picture for more info about the part. Part number: AP2921090
You could check the resistance of the coil but the only way to tell for sure that the valve is bad is to replace it. I did look up the wiring diagram for the BL0 unit but it showed the valve as a 9743175 which is one of the valves that was used in these units. Its coil should be in the 900 to 1000 ohm. If checking also check to the metal body of the valve to be sure it is not grounded. There is a possibiliy that the original failed and screwed up the control board. |
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Thanks for the reply. I will have to check the resistance over the weekend.
One question - you mentioned to check the metal body of the valve to make sure it is not grounded. It is attached to the frame by a metal screw, and there is a ground wire running to the frame, so I assume it is actually grounded to the frame of the washer (though I could be wrong) - the old one was connected to the frame the same way. Is that the part you are suggesting to double check?
Thanks again
Jonathan
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No what I meant was to check the winding to the ground,frame.
Both of them should be infinite ohms.
If not the winding is shorted to the frame inside the walve and that is not a good thing. |
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Thanks - checked the resistance - it looks like 900 ohms or so across the two leads that connect to the wire harness, and not grounded to the frame from those leads. The old valve, for what its worth, has infinite resistance across the leads, which I assume confirms something burned out inside it.
But still, when I hit the start button on the control panel it immediately turns off. I've tried attaching the leads after hitting start (I know, not the safest thing), and sometimes I'll heard a slight whooshing before it shuts off, like the valve is moving a hair, but no matter what it immediately shuts off.
I guess that means I'm facing a controller board problem on top of the broken valve? If so, I think I'll have to move on to a new dishwasher, as I'm not sure replacing that on a unit this old is cost effective...
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Rank: Member
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FWIW - I found the 'reboot' instructions on the dw. If the new valve isn't connected, runs through the entire process. If the new valve is connected, stops the process immediately - like any time there is power on that line, and the circuit is closed, the dishwasher just stops. Don't know if there is any way that's the valve, but just fyi.
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