Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/3/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Hi all,
I tried to diagnose and repair almost 20 year old fridge. Changed the defrost thermostat but still not working.
Did a continuity test with the heater element attached to the evap coils and there was around 20-30 ohms of resistance. Not sure if this is a false positive because its still connected to the Evap coils. :confused: :confused: :confused:
I don't want to remove the heater to test continuity because it is a lot of work on this particular fridge.
Maybe I order the control board and heater element together and return the one that's not the culprit? any assistance greatly appreciated
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool ED22PSXDW00 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. Your defrost heater resistance looks OK. The below assumes that the defrost thermostat is frozen. It opens just above freezing and opens the circuit to the defrost heater. You could try forcing a defrost cycle. If the heater gets hot then the defrost board is bad. If it does not get hot this does not eliminate the board as the problem. You could also unplug the unit and the defrost board and then check the heater resistance. 6 (white) to 5 (brown) should be between 20 and 40 ohms (defrost heater) 6 (white) to 2 (pink) should also be 20 to 40 ohms (defrost heater and defrost thermostat) If both are OK then I would say that the defrsot board is bad. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/3/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool ED22PSXDW00 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. Your defrost heater resistance looks OK. The below assumes that the defrost thermostat is frozen. It opens just above freezing and opens the circuit to the defrost heater. You could try forcing a defrost cycle. If the heater gets hot then the defrost board is bad. If it does not get hot this does not eliminate the board as the problem. You could also unplug the unit and the defrost board and then check the heater resistance. 6 (white) to 5 (brown) should be between 20 and 40 ohms (defrost heater) 6 (white) to 2 (pink) should also be 20 to 40 ohms (defrost heater and defrost thermostat) If both are OK then I would say that the defrsot board is bad. Thank you SO much for the PDF. I'm not an EE by any means but will try to use Option #2. Do you know whats the difference between Option 1 vs Option 2 to enter into Defrost Control Test Mode? Thanks again!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"]Do you know whats the difference between Option 1 vs Option 2 to enter into Defrost Control Test Mode?[/COLOR]
No but if one does not work try the other. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/3/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Quote:You could try forcing a defrost cycle. If the heater gets hot then the defrost board is bad. If it does not get hot this does not eliminate the board as the problem. I just forced a defrost cycle and the heater is not hot. :( Quote:You could also unplug the unit and the defrost board and then check the heater resistance.
6 (white) to 5 (brown) should be between 20 and 40 ohms (defrost heater)
6 (white) to 2 (pink) should also be 20 to 40 ohms (defrost heater and defrost thermostat)
If both are OK then I would say that the defrsot board is bad.
I am comfortable in testing this, should I be testing the board or the actual wire terminals which hooks to the board?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Test the wire terminals.
They go to the element and the defrost thermostat. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/3/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: denman Test the wire terminals.
They go to the element and the defrost thermostat. This is such a mystery and so fustrating, so I tested the terminals and the exact color wires you suggested. All the ohm's read exactly around 24-29 ohms. I swapped out the Adaptive Defrost Controller with a new one bought from this website, but the coils still frost! :mad: :mad: I feel like I am out of options, since the heater tested good, already changed the thermostat. What else can be wrong :confused: :confused: could it be a relay somewhere? I do hear a click when I try to 'force' the fridge into defrost mode per the service manual this forum is godsend, thanks so much
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Well I am pretty much out of ideas.
You have checked and/or replaced everything involved with defrost.
Might be time to get in a pro.
You could also try getting a handy friend in perhaps they will see what I have missed.
[COLOR="Blue"]What else can be wrong could it be a relay somewhere?[/COLOR]
The only relay that is involved with defrost is on the defrost board which you have already replaced. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
