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I have a Kitchen Aid dishwasher, KUDP01FL, and a while ago the control panel locked up on me. I tried the various code sequences to reset it, and finally got some results after unplugging it for a while and then plugging it back it. However, the 'normal' wash button doesn't work, but the heavy duty and light cycle buttons do. Unfortunately, the heavy duty cycle takes forever (2-3 hours) and the light cycle doesn't always get the dishes clean. Am I looking at replacing the control panel, or is something else involved here? I am relatively handy, is this a do-it-yourself job? Or should I just consider replacing the dishwasher?
JB
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Your model number is short several digits at the end. Please check and update it. I cannot find a tech sheet without a full model number. Here is what comes up when searching for your unit as you can see there are many units in the Matching Model Numbers section. Parts for KUDP01FL - AppliancePartsPros.comCould be the control panel or control board. Since unplugging it got it running it is more likely to be the control board. The usual way to troubleshoot is to check the output from the control panel and if it is OK then replace the control board. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better. Do you have the unit's tech sheet (often taped to the back of the kick plate). You need it to get the panel's outputs. You may want to try the following. Connector Cleaning / Checking Unplug the unit Open it up Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board. Clean the edge connector. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive. Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here. Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates. Reconnect everything and give it a try. |
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Just ran through all the things suggested, but to no avail. Cable looks fine, no corrosion, everything cleaned and reassembled (not very complicated!). Every button works except the 'normal' wash button. How would I check the output from the control panel?
BTW, full model number is KUDP01FLSS3.
If this doesn't work, then I guess I try the control panel first, and then the control board, or the other way around? Trying to do this piecemeal so I don't have to pay for something that I don't need. Please advise.
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See the attachment for the tech sheet. It has the procedure on how to check the Normal button (switch). If it checks out OK then I would replace the control board. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Borrowed my Dad's meter (AT&T, has to be at least 50 years old, but still works!), and was able to get resistance only if I pushed the switch in at an angle. All other switches worke fine. Got it to start by using a small screwdriver to push the side of the switch once I re-installed the panel, and quickly inserted two screws and closed the door. Shazam, it started and it going through its cycles right now. So, I will start with a new control panel and go from there. Thanks for your help!
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You are welcome
Sounds like you have it beat. |
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Took about 1 1/2 hours to complete the cycle on 'normal'. Is that reasonable, or should it take less time? Just curious.
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Sounds OK to me
The tech sheet does give some cycle time info.
Also it depends a lot on your water temperature.
The recommended is 120 degrees F minimum.
Cycles will be longer if it takes the unit extra time to heat the water up. |
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Originally Posted by: JeffBarron  Borrowed my Dad's meter (AT&T, has to be at least 50 years old, but still works!), and was able to get resistance only if I pushed the switch in at an angle. All other switches worke fine. Got it to start by using a small screwdriver to push the side of the switch once I re-installed the panel, and quickly inserted two screws and closed the door. Shazam, it started and it going through its cycles right now. So, I will start with a new control panel and go from there. Thanks for your help! I have the dishwasher GE GLDT696TSS model about 5 years old. The normal light selection was dead. The control panel delay time automatically run forever from 00 to 24 when I turn on the power, so I can't set mode and it can't run. I have to cut off the power to the dishwasher for a minute then turn on. The delay time stop then I set a mode ( normal function is okay but no light up) then it can run. I see you have the same issue and I would like to learn from you. What part did you replace? Does it work fine after that? Your help and recommendation are much appreciated.
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