Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool WED9200SQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Sounds like a control board problem.
This now comes as a kit (item 19 in section 01).
Note that kits often indicate that there have been problems with a part.

You may want to try the following but my gut says it will need a new control board.

Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

I also just ran through the diagnostics and saw that I have an F25 -- assume that means I also need to replace my inlet thermister. Not sure which part that is - can you please confirm whetehr I'd need to replace 47, 48, or both?

Also, the inlet air flow test tagged it as low (15). Seems to be pumping air just fine. Anything I should do right now, or should I replace the control unit as planned and then rerun the diagnostics?

[COLOR="Blue"]Not sure which part that is - can you please confirm whetehr I'd need to replace 47, 48, or both?[/COLOR]
48 is just the thermister
47 is the thermister and the thermal cut-off
[COLOR="Blue"]
Anything I should do right now, or should I replace the control unit as planned and then rerun the diagnostics?[/COLOR]
I would wait.

[COLOR="Blue"]Another set of questions to add to the list -- I've read in a few places about checking the continuity of the heating element. I cannot find a test for that anywhere.[/COLOR]
Unplug the unit.
Disconnect one side of the heating element. This prevents you from reading a alternate/parallel circuit.
Measure the heating coil. It should be in the 8 to 12 ohm range.
Now measure from each side of the heating coil to the case. Both should be infinite ohms.
If not the heater is grounded and should be replaced.

[COLOR="Blue"]
F-25 indicates the inlet thermister (and I'm hoping you'll point me to the right part).[/COLOR]
Inlet thermister is part (built into) item 48 (I think)

[COLOR="Blue"]Is there anything else I should check / replace while I'm on this adventure?[/COLOR]
Not that I can think of.

Note that I will be unavailable for a few days as I am off to cottage country.

Note -I also disconnected the heating element.


Resistance across the element is appx 10 ohms, and then I checked both ends for continuity to the case. In both cases, there is connection between the element and ground. Assume that is what you meant by checking it to ground. Since there is continuity, does that mean it also needs replacing?

Thanks for all of your help. Quick summary to help anyone else who may experience this.

After receiving the thermister, thermal cut-off and heating element, I got after the repair.

Following the video one the page with the heating element part gave me good guidance on how to get into the dryer. When I got there, it was pretty linty. I cleaned that up and removed the old heating element. It was broken in 2 sections and clearly grounded. While in there, replaced all three components, and put it back together.

The control panel has not yet arrived, so I ran the system through the diagnostics.

Everything worked great.

Great air flow, no F25, and in the air only mode, the element did not heat up.

I've done a few loads since then, and the dryer is running great. The element is turning on and off through the cycle, clothes are not overheating, and the system seems fine.

My sense is that the grounded heating coil was the root cause, and that cascaded the other issues when it overheated.

I'll hold onto the control panel for a little while to make sure it does not start to act up, but my sense is problem solved.

Thanks for all your help!

Paul Hey