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Lights work but will not start. Replaced Relay Overload and Run Capacitor which I read fixes high percent of issue; however wiring harness different for overload and ran blue wire to gold and white wire to silver tabs which I read was correct order in a post. Still trips GFI when plug it in to run. Compressor shot and need new refrigerator - ? This model was moved to our garage as second refrigerator couple of years ago....thanks!
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Sorry but I am confused.
You say the lights work but it blows the GFI when you plug it in.
How can the lights work if the GFI is tripped?
Do the fans work?
If not then the problem is probably not with the compressor.
Have you tried plugging it into a non GFI receptacle? |
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Sorry to confuse.... the lights will go on when I plug into a non-GFI receptacle. The fan or anything else does not run when I run to non-GFI. I am not having any other issues with this circuit / GFI. Thanks for responding to this - it is appreciated.
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First use the non-GFI receptacle. Using it will confuse things. Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram. Parts for Amana ARB9059CS / PARB9059CS1 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comSince the fans also do not run, you may be stuck in a defrost cycle. Turn the defrost timer cam (item 25 in section 02) with a flat screwdriver in the correct direction. If the unit fires up the timer is probably bad. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  First use the non-GFI receptacle. Using it will confuse things. Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram. Parts for Amana ARB9059CS / PARB9059CS1 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comSince the fans also do not run, you may be stuck in a defrost cycle. Turn the defrost timer cam (item 25 in section 02) with a flat screwdriver in the correct direction. If the unit fires up the timer is probably bad. Hi Denman - current status is by now plugging into non GFI, and all I had to do was turn the freezer control from off position and everything is running, including fan. I know the overload relay was in bad shape when I replaced since it rattles and tiny pieces were coming out. So I think the new part was needed. Other thing is freezer was really frosting up before it quit, and the bottom door just does not seal up well with all of the pulling over years - top side seal area has space; I have greased rails and tightened before but maybe that is contributing to issues? Since all outlets in garage are on GFI circuit and when I use any of them it still trips the GFI (pulling more power than it should?) Since running maybe defrost timer is not issue?
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[COLOR="Blue"]I have greased rails and tightened before but maybe that is contributing to issues?[/COLOR]
Hard to say.
Could be that a poor seal is letting in too much warm moist air and causing a condensation problem somewhere but this is a grasping at straws type of thing.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Since all outlets in garage are on GFI circuit and when I use any of them it still trips the GFI (pulling more power than it should?)[/COLOR]
It is not really pulling too much power. If it was then it would blow the circuit breaker an a non-GFI outlet.
A GFI measures the current going into an appliance on L1 and also the current going out of the unit on Neutral. If they are not exactly the same then it trips. The power has to be going somewhere so it is leaking to ground. The difference can be just a few milli-amps. It is very sensitive.
Could be just moisture or dust making a circuit path to the frame
So in your unit something is leaking a little current to ground.
This will probably be a pain to find.
I would start by removing the light bulbs to see if it is a dirty socket.
Next I would look at the control thermostat. The wiring diagram shows that it is grounded. Probably has a ground wire attached to it's outside. I would disconnect that wire to see if the leak is inside the thermostat.
[COLOR="Blue"]Since running maybe defrost timer is not issue?[/COLOR]
Yes I agree with you. It was more likely to be a control thermostat problem.
They can stick open |
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Originally Posted by: denman I have greased rails and tightened before but maybe that is contributing to issues?
Hard to say.
Could be that a poor seal is letting in too much warm moist air and causing a condensation problem somewhere but this is a grasping at straws type of thing.
Since all outlets in garage are on GFI circuit and when I use any of them it still trips the GFI (pulling more power than it should?)
It is not really pulling too much power. If it was then it would blow the circuit breaker an a non-GFI outlet.
A GFI measures the current going into an appliance on L1 and also the current going out of the unit on Neutral. If they are not exactly the same then it trips. The power has to be going somewhere so it is leaking to ground. The difference can be just a few milli-amps. It is very sensitive.
Could be just moisture or dust making a circuit path to the frame
So in your unit something is leaking a little current to ground.
This will probably be a pain to find.
I would start by removing the light bulbs to see if it is a dirty socket.
Next I would look at the control thermostat. The wiring diagram shows that it is grounded. Probably has a ground wire attached to it's outside. I would disconnect that wire to see if the leak is inside the thermostat.
Since running maybe defrost timer is not issue?
Yes I agree with you. It was more likely to be a control thermostat problem.
They can stick open Denman - I will look into areas you targeted - thanks again for your wealth of advice.....things I would never be able to identify on my own.
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Originally Posted by: CCICH Denman - I will look into areas you targeted - thanks again for your wealth of advice.....things I would never be able to identify on my own. Denman - I just unscrewed and screwed back all bulbs and everything seems to be working fine. I was able to improve the door seal situation too. Will keep an eye on it but everything seems to be working great. Thank you for you advice - it was invaluable......
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