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Model: 110.26852504 Brand: Kenmore Age: Less than 1 year
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gsh_110  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 29, 2015 6:05:02 PM(UTC)
gsh_110

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I'm getting a metal on metal sound at the start of the spin cycle on my Kenmore washer. The noise continues for about 20 seconds and then stops. It's absolutely quiet at the end of the spin cycle. I dis-assembled the washer and found that the brake cam driver retaining clip had fallen out. I found the clip on the floor and re-assembled everything, but I'm still getting the noise.

Note: I replaced the clutch and brake cam driver about a year ago for a failing spin cycle problem and it worked perfectly until last week.

I then thought that if the brake wasn't releasing properly, then perhaps it ruined the clutch. I tried taking my old clutch band (which never made a noise previously), swapped out the spring from the new clutch and installed it in the washer. The noise is still there.

I tried removing the spanner nut to check the spin tube and to see if anything was caught in between the tubs, but couldn't get the nut off. The drive block appears to be fine.

Before I order a spanner wrench I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction? Perhaps I'm just way off base?

Thanks in advance.
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fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, June 30, 2015 5:27:46 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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The T bearing at the bottom of the basket drive may be worn out. Lets see a closeup photo of it with brake cam driver removed.

Eric
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gsh_110  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, June 30, 2015 10:20:27 AM(UTC)
gsh_110

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Thanks for the help, Eric. I've attached a close-up of the T bearing.

Best,

Greg
gsh_110 attached the following image(s):
IMAG0280-001.jpg
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fairbank56  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, June 30, 2015 3:19:53 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Yep, you need a new T bearing. To get the old one out, just cut it lengthwise with a hacksaw blade so it can loosen up. Tap the new one in with hammer and block of wood. Before you put the transmission back in, grab the brake cam driver by hand and rotate it CCW while pushing upward to make sure the basket drive us fully up into the brake housing.

Whirlpool 8546462 T Bearing - AppliancePartsPros.com

http://www.appliancepartspros.c...w10083200-ap3997123.html

Eric

The bottom portion of your bearing is about completely worn away which is why the clip came off. This is what it should look like.

UserPostedImage
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gsh_110  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, June 30, 2015 6:02:36 PM(UTC)
gsh_110

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Thank you very much! I'll order the parts and post back.

A couple of questions:

1) Do I need to remove the basket drive?

2) When you say "cut it lengthwise", I'm not sure what you mean since it looks about as long as it is wide. Do you mean use a mini-hacksaw to cut down into the spin tube and cut the bearing in half or do you mean cut across the face over the spin tube opening to cut the top part of the bearing?

Best,

Greg
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fairbank56  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, July 1, 2015 4:52:03 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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No, you don't have to remove the basket drive and yes, use a mini hacksaw to cut it into the spin tube. Just be careful when your almost all the way through, don't cut into the spin tube itself. You can try to pull it out without cutting it if you have some sort of tool to reach up into the tube and over the edge of the bearing.

Eric
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gsh_110  
#7 Posted : Thursday, July 2, 2015 7:09:42 AM(UTC)
gsh_110

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Great. I'll let you know how it goes once the part arrives.

Thanks again for your help.

Best,

Greg
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gsh_110  
#8 Posted : Thursday, July 2, 2015 5:52:17 PM(UTC)
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It worked!
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gsh_110  
#9 Posted : Thursday, July 2, 2015 5:54:46 PM(UTC)
gsh_110

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About an hour of time and the washer is as quiet as can be. The bearing came off easily with a channel-lock once I cut into it. The new bearing was a pain to get on and I don't know if I got it 100% snug up against spin tube, but it wouldn't move past a certain point. Everything fits tightly so I hope it won't come back to haunt me.

Thanks for all your help Eric.

Best,

Greg
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