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Kenmore Dryer 70 Series is heating when timer is set
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Joined: 5/18/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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My problem is when I set the timer for the dryer, the heating element turns on even with the door open. I opened up the back panel and I did find a resistor about 2 inches long wrapped in plastic which is connected through an orange wire. It does look burnt a bit but from what I've read I don't believe this would be the cause but please correct me if I'm wrong. The resistor part is this: Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Resistor, part number: 279872
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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If the heating element tuns "on" without pushing the start button then it's probably shorted to ground. You have to take the dryer apart, remove the wires from the heating element terminals and check for continuity between each terminal and ground. Also check the door switch as well.
Post the results.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/18/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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Ok, I haven't really done this before but I have a general understanding of it I think. I just bought a meter today. :)
I tested the thermal fuse (two blue wires go into it by the blower motor) and it has no continuity for starters so I'm guessing this is why it stopped turning.
I did what you said and took the heating element off which at the bottom has 4 tongues for wires to connect to and only three were connected, I don't see a fourth wire that was around to be connected so I'm guessing this is OK? I checked the tongues which run to the 2 heating element wires/coils (one of these didn't have a wire connected) and I'm getting 10 Ohms and I checked the other piece (part#3399693 which i is the thermostat?) with an orange wire connected and red wire and I'm reading .5 Ohms. While the heating element was still connected to the dryer I also checked all four tongues (wire connector things) to the green ground wire on the dryer and I was getting continuity with all connections.
Now where I took the heating element off, there was a top section also which 2 more red wires connected to something else, I checked it and it had continuity but it did not have continuity with the ground wire.
I did NOT check the door switch because I'm not sure is there is an easier way to do it, I can see it in the front of the dryer by the door from the back, is the only way to check it is by taking the top of the dryer off? I see its connected with a black and white wire.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/18/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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I kept looking at the coils on the heating element to see if they were touching something and I finally noticed on the back side a piece of the coil was touching the metal, I'm guessing this is the cause of my problem and due to this it could of blown the thermal fuse? So I should just need to get a new thermal fuse?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I would replace the heating element and the thermal fuse. The door switch is still questionable. - The part number for the heating element is AP3094254 - The part number for the thermal fuse is AP3132867Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/18/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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any reason why I should replace the heating element if it was just a coil touching the case?
thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Can you guarantee it would not happen again? We just recommend - the decision is always yours.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/18/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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Kenmore Dryer 70 Series is heating when timer is set
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