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liquor driver  
#1 Posted : Sunday, May 17, 2009 9:59:55 AM(UTC)
liquor driver

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/13/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3

Hi does any one have a clue to what I should look at Next ? :confused:
I have a 4 yr old Maytag electric dryer MDE8600AYW
It stopped blowing heat. It runs truns blower works strong but no Heat !
I checked the Hight Limit Thermostat and Thermal Fuse it showd ok but I replaced both of them any way.
It did not do the trick still nothing !!
I tested and inspected the Heat Element all is ok no cracks or burns or ground outs.The outlet puts out 210V
So any Clue to what I missed to get this Dryer back in the Heat ???
Thanks in advance for the help.
Bob :mad:
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LoginFreak  
#2 Posted : Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:16:15 AM(UTC)
LoginFreak

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Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 6/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 27

Did you check the thermal fuse on the element housing?

Or the one on the vent housing.
It's the on on the vent housing that you want to check for continuity.

If all safeties are good. Then It can be either that the motor is not giving out 120 volts or the timer is not giving it out.
Or it could be something in between.

But the best way to know is.. If all safeties are good.
Unplug the dryer.
Take one wire off the element and plug your meter into it.
And then make sure that connection will not touch anything. Don't want to short anything out.
Then turn the dryer on and see if you get 120 volts from that wire.
If yes then do the same with the other wire.
If one of the wires doesn't give out 120 volts follow it and test at the next source.

Let us know if you have any questions.
liquor driver  
#3 Posted : Sunday, May 17, 2009 11:00:43 AM(UTC)
liquor driver

Rank: Member

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Joined: 5/13/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3

Thanks I have recheck the Thermal fuse 4 motor run its ok and blower runs. I checked the cyling thermostat the end concetion is open the center is closed.
I think thats the way is should be ????
As far as checking the input to the Element not clear on how to do so ?
You said un plug wire connect tester to lead wire then should I put the other half of tested to element lead to complete the circut ?
Sorry for the dumb ?? live electric is the only thing that maked me dot all my I's and cross all T's first.
LoginFreak  
#4 Posted : Sunday, May 17, 2009 11:07:50 AM(UTC)
LoginFreak

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 6/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 27

Originally Posted by: liquor driver Go to Quoted Post
Thanks I have recheck the Thermal fuse 4 motor run its ok and blower runs. I checked the cyling thermostat the end concetion is open the center is closed.
I think thats the way is should be ????
As far as checking the input to the Element not clear on how to do so ?
You said un plug wire connect tester to lead wire then should I put the other half of tested to element lead to complete the circut ?
Sorry for the dumb ?? live electric is the only thing that maked me dot all my I's and cross all T's first.


Sorry I wasn't clear on that part of it.

1. unplug the dryer.
2. unplug one wire from the element.
3. plug one of the meter leads to that wire. and the other meter lead to ground.
4. turn the dryer on and see if there is 120 volts.

Repeat on the other side if the first one is good.
There should be one side missing power.

Once you locate which side is missing power.
Follow that wire to the next part and test it.

If it goes to the motor then chances are the motor switch is the problem.
If it goes to the safeties check them again and then go further which will probably end up being the timer.

Always test for power with one wire off because you can get 120 volts from either side and so if all wires are plugged you will get 120 volts even if it's not coming from the wire you are testing.
liquor driver  
#5 Posted : Sunday, May 17, 2009 12:18:58 PM(UTC)
liquor driver

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/13/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3

Thanks for the help.. yes one lead was dead it goes the the 2 thermostats ( multi temp , ultra care ) pop them off its runs good the other leads on the stats were dead I am not shure if there grounds I guess not .. one goes up to the control switch for low temp the other to that dam motor switch so I do think your correct.
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