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Model: DPSE810EG7WT	Brand: GE	Age: 1 - 5 years
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E903828		#1 Posted : Friday, February 13, 2015 5:20:19 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/13/2015(UTC) Posts: 3		The electric element is not working. Purchased new part and the inner element does not work. If I switch the blue and white wire the inner works and the outer will not. I think I may have shorter something. The blue wire was not connected properly before I purchased the new part and it arched . Is there a fuse that may have blown? Could I have shorted one of the relays.


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fairbank56		#2 Posted : Saturday, February 14, 2015 3:52:30 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Expert Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806 Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)		Check the two thermistors. Resistance chart is on your wiring diagram. If they are good, looks like a faulty control board. Eric


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E903828		#3 Posted : Saturday, February 14, 2015 5:28:13 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/13/2015(UTC) Posts: 3		I bought an inlet safety thermistor and that shows resistance but I though it was to read O Ohms for continuity. How do test for resistance and continuity?


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fairbank56		#4 Posted : Saturday, February 14, 2015 5:40:53 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Expert Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806 Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)		Continuity test is something you perform on a device that should normally read zero ohms which does not include thermistor testing. The thermistors are resistors that vary in value depending on the temperature of the ambient air around them. At an ambient temperature of 69 degrees F, the thermistor should read 118 to 122 kohms. That's thousands of ohms. You must set your meter to a scale that will read that value. Eric


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E903828		#5 Posted : Saturday, February 14, 2015 7:34:39 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/13/2015(UTC) Posts: 3		Ok. I will test the other two. I think your right, it's probably the control board. I guess that's not worth replacing and beyond my expertise. Thanks


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