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Ok, so your unit uses an electronic control board/temp sensor to regulate temperatures and not a thermostat/hwr. If your temps are off and you've already replaced the temp sensor, you may want to confirm the sensor connection to the control board (X2 Connection) is tight. From the board, you can also measure the resistance of the bake element, which is measured across the two, heavier blue wires, and make sure they ohm out at ~22 ohms. If you've already replaced the sensor and the x2 connection is tight, and the bake element is good, all that's left is the board.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/9/2014(UTC)
Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by: Servicer  Ok, so your unit uses an electronic control board/temp sensor to regulate temperatures and not a thermostat/hwr. If your temps are off and you've already replaced the temp sensor, you may want to confirm the sensor connection to the control board (X2 Connection) is tight. From the board, you can also measure the resistance of the bake element, which is measured across the two, heavier blue wires, and make sure they ohm out at ~22 ohms. If you've already replaced the sensor and the x2 connection is tight, and the bake element is good, all that's left is the board. I will reconfirm the connection is tight from replacement of thermostat sensor. I'm pretty certain it is/was as it is a slide and lock plastic type connection. I will try checking the ohms across the heavier blue wires. In one post I read it appeared that the both elements should get red hot. The upper element certainly got red hot when set to broil. I tried starting the oven with a temp of 500 degress with the lower element shield removed and the lower element never got to the point of being red. But did pass the conductivity test when removed and when turning the oven on for 1 minute and physically to the touch through a towel was warm. It is either functioning or not correct? There is no in between? Is there a way to check the board before order the $210. part? I really appreciate all your suggestions and help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191
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During preheat, the broil (upper) element does most of the heating, though the bake element (lower) should be energized for about 20 seconds out of every minute. Because it's only energized for 20 seconds, it doesn't have time to glow red.
Yes, the element will either heat or not.
To check for power out of the board, make sure you have ~240vac on the bake inputs, which are the black on the X12 plug and the red feeding the K2 relay, which should also have a blue wire on it. If you don't have power on either the red or black, you're losing voltage to one of those two wires, you'll want to trace it to it's source. The black wire should go back to the main terminal block, but the red comes off of the thermal overload. Because the thermal overload is common to broil, it should be closed, but you may have a wire burnt off of it.
Once you confirm that you have 240vac feeding the board, you'll set the unit up for bake and check for 240vac leaving off of the blue wires. You'll want to wait at least 40 seconds in case it heats the broiler first. If you have 240vac into the board and nothing out, it's the board.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/9/2014(UTC)
Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by: Servicer During preheat, the broil (upper) element does most of the heating, though the bake element (lower) should be energized for about 20 seconds out of every minute. Because it's only energized for 20 seconds, it doesn't have time to glow red.
Yes, the element will either heat or not.
To check for power out of the board, make sure you have ~240vac on the bake inputs, which are the black on the X12 plug and the red feeding the K2 relay, which should also have a blue wire on it. If you don't have power on either the red or black, you're losing voltage to one of those two wires, you'll want to trace it to it's source. The black wire should go back to the main terminal block, but the red comes off of the thermal overload. Because the thermal overload is common to broil, it should be closed, but you may have a wire burnt off of it.
Once you confirm that you have 240vac feeding the board, you'll set the unit up for bake and check for 240vac leaving off of the blue wires. You'll want to wait at least 40 seconds in case it heats the broiler first. If you have 240vac into the board and nothing out, it's the board. So finally go around to pulling the oven apart. On my oven unit the X12 happens to have a blue wire instead of black. But when checking between the X12 and red K2 when oven is not in operation it is reading 69.2 volts. When the oven is turned on and trying to heat the reading is 240 volts. Any suggestions on what I should try/test next?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/23/2015(UTC)
Posts: 3
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We have a Thermador oven thermostat 00622568/622568 for oven range that we purchased thinking it was the problem but found that it was our heating element. The original repair diagnostics were completed by a Thermador approved repair tech but we got a second opinion and the 2nd tech diagnosed and repaired the problem. I am selling it on ******** but am happy to sell to the first interested party as I know these are hard to come by.
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