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Apparently my POS meter doesn't want to do ohms; I can't get a reading, even on a test wire. I think I'll try jumping the door switch first and hope that's my issue. If not, I'll try the thermal fuse. Either fix will be temporary until I can get new parts in.
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Rank: Member
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I went out and bought a digital meter and took the readings you mentioned. I read continuity on the door switch (closed), as well as the thermo fuse, though the fuse was not 0. From the power cord to the timer L terminal I read continuity, and that was with the wire still attached to the terminal.
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Well, you have an open circuit somewhere if your not getting 120vac between timer terminals L and N. L is the hot side via the thermal fuse and door switch. N is neutral direct from power cord connection block. You need to check the wiring and wiring terminals/connections.
Eric
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Should I be checking anything on the motor itself? Since that's the only thing I have really tinkered with, I can't see how any connections would have come loose between when everything worked and now.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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If you don't have power at the timer L terminal, you don't have power to the motor.
Eric
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Ok, well that's good news I suppose. Any other thoughts on what I could check? I'm waaaay out of my depth here.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I can't offer much more then I have. Can't teach electrical troubleshooting over an Internet forum. It's always an exercise in frustration. It's a simple circuit though. Power hot side goes to thermal fuse, from fuse to door switch, from door switch to timer L terminal. With timer on, L terminal connects to timer M terminal which goes to motor and start switch. Neutral leg goes direct from power cord to motor and timer.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Ok. Thanks again for all your help, I'll dive into it again tomorrow and see if I can figure it out.
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