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First of all – I'm happy to come across this forum with so friendly and professional advisers.
We owe GE electric dryer model DPSF505EW2WW ser: DZ705594A since 2001. It never bring any problem. Just regularly clean up vent in my house.
Then recently dryer start make noise like the drum tried to jump out but the door kept it inside. I took dryer apart and replaced all bearings on front and on drum. The same time I found the belt switch broken so I bypass it. After that I put everything together and........... no start. NOTHING!!! OK... No wiring diagram nowhere inside and outside of the dryer. I start over: checked power input, door switch, the high limit safety thermostat, start switch, the timer (between B and C with removed red wire from B), the timer motor (removed black wire from D on the timer and the reading between that wire and black wire on terminal T on the timer is 2310 ohms). Everything looks fine. Then I connect one alligator clip of my test cord to ground terminal of dryer's cord and another one clip to terminal 2 of the start switch (with red or orange wire) and connected the test cord to the outlet and NOTHING happen. So, according to video on .do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com the motor is bad.
I purchased a brand new motor from ************************ (not cheap) and belt switch and install it. NOTHING!!! I checked everything again and everything was fine except the dryer not running. Not at all!
Yes I can return this motor and pay for shipping twice, because I paid for shipping to me too.
But I can't believe that I'm so lucky to have two bad motors at the same time.
What can I check more?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
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Sounds like a faulty door switch. Did you verify power at the receptacle? Here is your wiring diagram.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Fairbank56, Thank you very much for your response and especially for the wiring diagram. I have no word to express my appreciation.
Yes, I do have a power at the receptacle and I tested the power cable, too. Also I forgot to mention that light sensor is lighting while I connected the test cord or power cable to receptacle.
Tonight i'm going to test door switch again and bypass it.
I will report about it.
Thank you again.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4
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The door switch is good.
Any clue?
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
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Are you sure you connected your test cord properly? Terminal 2 of the start switch should have a brown wire and terminal 1 has the red wire. If your sure you have 120vac at the red wire and a good connection of the neutral on your test cord to the neutral terminal of the power cord connection block and you hear no sound from the motor then I'd say you have a wiring issue or a bad connection at the motor connector.
Eric
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Eric, thank you for right direction.
The problem solved!
It was a wire from neutral prong to door switch. I found it just because you force me to do that. I bypass door switch, I mean I connected wire from neutral prong directly to the motor and tested motor by my test cord. The motor started!!! I reach the wire over the top of machine and carefully moved it from side to side by pencil and – the motor stopped. It was a wire issue. I will replace this wire tonight.
P.S. In my case the start switch has connections in opposite direction: #1 brown, #2 red. But it doesn't matter because I didn't pay an attention on numbers, but on wire color.
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