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SpencerW  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 25, 2015 6:01:57 PM(UTC)
SpencerW

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/27/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3

Model No. FAV6800AWW
Serial No. 16525151GE
Date of Manufacture: March 2005
Total Cycle Count: 5836 as of 1/25/15

Description of failure:
Filled up all the way to the top of the tub, overflowed.


Diagnostic Procedure:
Turned water off, disconnected power. Cleaned up the mess and then reconnected power.

Entering service mode, I first performed the Board Input Test. I got the following results:
Lid Position - CL (lid was locked, so could not test for OP)
Lock State - LO
High Water Level - [SUP]-[/SUP]1
Medium Water Level - -1
Low Water Level - _1
Water Temperature - 64
For the Water Level Sensors, I did not add the appropriate water level (as described in the middle of the second column of page 16 of the service manual) because the tub was full of water and I reasoned that if the water level sensors were functioning correctly in that state, then each would output a 1 at each respective level.

Next, I used the Board Output Test to turn the Drain Pump on and drained the tub. After draining, I retrieved All Diagnostic Codes (and Cycle Count No. for Diagnostic Code for each) and found the following:
Code | Count
08 | 10
05 | 14
84 | 14
08 | 15
08 | 20
03 | 20
08 | 25
08 | 26
08 | 32
--

Code 08:
As I understand this code, either the Low Water Level or the Medium Water Level sensor failed to signal when the High Water Level sensor was signalling.
Is this supposed to be a progressive signal? As in; Low is triggered, then Medium, then High; in that order? Or is it any time that the Medium (or high) is triggered and the Low (or Medium) is not?
Also, I can't find the No Water Fill Test anywhere in the service manual, any hints about how to perform this test?


Code 05:
I know that the clutch is probably on its last legs. I took it apart in October and cleaned and re-greased everything, but I don't think that's even remotely related to this issue.


Code 84:
The only thing I can find about this code is that it's related to the lid lock somehow. I can't find it in the service manual.


Code 03:
I can't remember the display showing nF, but it's likely I missed it or someone else saw it and ignored it. And again, I can't seem to find the "No Water Fill" Troubleshooting Section. Does anyone have a procedure for the No Water Fill Test?




Next, I cleared the codes, then attempted to run a Quick Wash cycle to see if it would overflow again. The cycle failed part way through and the machine displayed Lr.

Then, pulling the Diagnostic Codes again, I got these results:
Code | Count
03. | 00
06. | 00
22. | 00
--

Code 03:
I don't think it displayed the nF. Would the Lr code supercede a code of nF and not allow it to be displayed? Am I able to step through the codes after a normal cycle fails and displays a code?

Code 06:
I need to perform a Motor Control Board Output Test, as described on page 15 of the Service Manual. That's my next step after posting this.

Code 22:
I need to run Lid Lock Test, but I can't find it referenced anywhere in the Service Manual. Any hints?


I also performed a Quick Spin Test and each of the steps checked out just fine, then performed a Quick Service Cycle, and got a PA result.


Any answers for me?
Suggestions?


Thanks!
Spencer
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SpencerW  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, January 28, 2015 5:15:03 AM(UTC)
SpencerW

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/27/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3

Tried to post an update, but got this message:

Post rejected because of a score of: 20 Rejection set to: 20.


Huh?
SpencerW  
#3 Posted : Sunday, February 1, 2015 5:28:00 PM(UTC)
SpencerW

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/27/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3

Looks like it was the inlet water valve being stuck, specifically the cold side. I couldn't find one in stock locally, so I just asked for something that might look close to the original part. I got another water inlet valve that bolted in place just fine. All I needed to do was put new terminals on the wiring harness and pull the thermistor off the original valve. For now, it's running with the thermistor valve just hanging there next to the hose. I know that's not right, but it let us do a couple loads of laundry. I've put together a 1/2" 'splice' from some fittings that has a flat area to attach the thermistor to. I'll use some heat transfer compound and zip-ties to hold it in place so the automatic temperature control can work correctly again.
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