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I picked up a Hotpoint dishwasher (old model) and want to wire it up plug in style, with a 14 AWG/ 300 volt wire removed from a microwave oven, 5 feet long. My question is this. I want to take the hard wire from the circuit breaker, ... install a grounded box outlet (rated for the proper amps), and use this 14 gauge cord as a connector. The wiring from the dishwasher is rated 18 AWG, 600 volts ... the BX from the box has to be at least a 12 or 10, judging from the stiffness. The box would be located under the floor in the cellar. The machine itself shows a total use of 10 amps, ... the breaker is a 15 amp line, and there is no disposal present. Is this a safe idea or should I just hard wire the unit into place? I don't want a fire, ... I've been there, done that, ... no fault of mine an I want to keep it that way.
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I cannot see any problems with what you want to do.
I would put the electrical box off to one side in the cellar. Then loop your electrical cord down and then up to the box. My idea here would be that if the dishwasher leaks water will run into the hole in the floor and then drip off the bottom of the loop instead of dripping into your electrical box.
One other thing that I do with dishwashers is to put a drip pan under them. They do make pans for this but they are hard to find and relatively expensive so I just get one of those plastic trays that they use to put wet boots on. They have about a half inch lip around the edge. Although they do not protect everything under the dishwasher they can be positioned to protect most of it. At home my dishwasher is over the utility room so I put a drain line in. Since we are in that room often doing laundry we will see a leak. At other locations I have just cut out a part (an inch or so) of the lip at the front so that if there is a leak, water will run out under the kick plate onto the floor instead of rotting out the floor under the unit because I did not know there was a leak.
The water valve is often outside the tray so I make a small tray out of tin foil so it is also protected and will show me if a leak develops. |
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Thanks for all the information "denman", ... I thought I might be safe, but I wanted to be sure. I've added the 'loop' to the plug in wire, ... and moved the box from under the unit. The only thing I have to do now is run the BX through the floor joist, as it's against our building code to have wiring attached to the living level (joist edge). I DID have to spend almost 20 bucks on a line kit, ... so I picked up a male, Cu .5 inch adapter, so I'll just solder that onto the main line, run the steel flex up to the unit. Almost fell over when I saw the price of solder! Wow, has that gone up in price since my last plumbing project. Why has it gone up so much? I'm about 85% done, ... I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for your prompt reply and info, I really appreciate it. All the best to you and yours, as well as everyone at "Appliance Part Pros" for this new year!
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Joined: 4/19/2013(UTC) Posts: 11
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Hello again denman, ... well I did the box wiring, ... hooked up the water line, there's a small leak (I know, there is no such thing)from the Cu fitting of the cellar supply line. I'm going to solder a male adapter to that feed in. Ran it through a high temp wash cycle, ... have a leak under the unit. Appears to be a solenoid activated piston shut off that isn't functioning properly. I've an idea the solenoid is on it's way out as I'm hearing a bit of a grinding sound (as in a disposal) that comes and goes, but last for only one to two seconds. The piston seems to malfunction during a change of cycle, then there is leakage of water until it closes. Maybe a matter of an "O" ring within the mechanism? Gave it a shot of WD-40, ... really didn't improve. So with this information, ... can you offer an thought or two? The piston may be bad, ... or the solenoid, ... or both. Is this an easy swop out on this machine, if it is in fact a solenoid problem? It's a Hotpoint: model # HDA3220Z04BB
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Here are your parts Parts for GE HDA3220Z04BB Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.comClicking on a parts description or picture will bring up a page with more info about it. If the solenoid and it's plunger are OK you may only need a Push-on nut (item 3415 in section 03) as the old one will probably be ruined trying to get it off. And a seal (item 417 in section 03). Be sure to take note how the parts are installed. There is a video with the seal. Check/clean the flapper valve shaft. You should be able to do this repair without having to pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Also be sure to add water to the unit before running it the first time as the pump seals will be damaged if it runs when they are dry. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Hello there denman, ... you are truly a blessing. I put some dishes in this washer tonight, running them through now, ... and I checked again as to the leak and it's origin. It's certainly coming from the shaft, and the solenoid is functioning (wrap on wood) as it should. This machine I was told "wasn't used much", ... might be the reason the seal isn't sealing. I had an auto mechanic that once told me car was fine. He said "the spark-plugs spark, the carburetor carbs, ... and the pistons do what they're suppose to do". I haven't a quick thought on what the functions of this dish washer does, ... and how it does it, ... maybe you'll have a few thoughts as my auto mechanic. Not many things rhyme with 'shaft'. Just want to say "Thank you" for all your help and information. I'll be ordering the "Push on Nut" and "Shaft Seal" in a matter of minutes from "Appliance Parts Pro". Thanks for all you do on this page. There's a place in heaven for you!
Best, Polly147
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