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Parts for Maytag MLE2000AYW Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a link to a manual.
You will have to in the site and be logged in to be able to download it.
http://appliancejunk.com...ownloads;sa=view;down=23

I am assuming thet the unit does not start in any mode.

Unplug the unit and set the timer to mid scale timed dry.
Set the meter to it's most sensitive scale, usually 200 ohms.
Attach one meter lead to L1 prong on the line cord and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the motor circuit.
L1 (black) at the terminal strip should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of timer switch 2 should be 0 ohms. Black and gray wires, I think.
All sides of the thermal switches should be 0 ohms.
Gray at the motor should be 0Red at the motor should be a couple ohms (motor windings).
Red at the push to start should be a couple ohms.
Same for the yellow with the push to start activated.
Keep the switch activated.
Then yellow at the door switch.
Also white at the door switch when it is activated.
And finally also at the Neutral (white) at the terminal strip and prong on the line cord.

Sorry for not replying earlier but I was at the lake for a few days.

I am not sure what is going on with the meter readings.

Is the given info with one meter lead on L1 of the line/power cord and then you show to where the other lead was placed and then the meter reading, correct?

The meter is set to 200 ohms, correct?

If you short the meter leads together what meter reading do you get?
This tells you if there is and how much zero offset is in the meter.

I am having some problems reading the wiring diagram due to it's poor quality.

I am assuming that the timer is set mid scale of a timed dry cycle.

Also note that when I say 0 I mean the shorted meter lead resistance you saw.

L1 terminal 6 [COLOR="Red"]This should be 0 as you are just measuring the wire in the cord.[/COLOR]
L2 terminal 1[COLOR="Red"] I am not sure what is going on here as you normally see some resistance when the timer is at any position other than off. [/COLOR]

Timer - gray 20 [COLOR="Red"]This should read the same as the black when in a operational mode re: the timer contacts are shorted.[/COLOR]
Timer – black 22 [COLOR="Red"]I do not know why you jump from 6 ohms to 22 as this is connected directly back to L1 at the terminal strip.
[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"]
All the thermal fuse readings should be the same as the grey reading but you jump up to around 30 ohms. but since you get the same reading on all of them I would say they are OK.[/COLOR]
Thermal fuse in Front (33001762) wire in back 34
Thermal fuse in Front - wire in front 1 (unplugged)
Thermal fuse in Rear (307473) wire in back 30
Thermal fuse in Rear – wire in front 30

Motor – gray 27 [COLOR="Red"]This is the same as the thermal fuses but now you drop a couple ohms.[/COLOR]
Motor - red 1 [COLOR="Red"]I am assuming that you are measuring to the smaller red wire. The larger one is for the heater. I again am having problems reading the diagram so am assuming there are two red wires on the motor switches.
If this is true then the readings indicate a blown motor.
I would disconnect it and recheck just the motor windings.
Be sure to note where the wires go.[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]I am not sure what you are reading at the push to start, could be the chime.
I do not know why the red does not read the same as the red at the motor they should be the same test point.[/COLOR]
Push start button - red 18
Push start button - yellow 18

Door switch – yellow 33 [COLOR="Red"]Here again I am confused as the yellow is the same as the yellow at the push to start but you get a different reading.[/COLOR]
Door switch – white 1 [COLOR="Red"]With the door switch closed this reading should be the same as the yellow re: the switch contacts are shorted. I would disconnect it and measure across it to see if it is OK.[/COLOR]
White terminal strip 1
White cord 1

I am not sure why your meter readings seem yo vary so much for places which should give the same reading.
Could be a low meter battery but usually the meter would show this.
Could be that the meter leads need cleaning.

Anyways the two places that concern me the most are the motor windings and the door switch.

[COLOR="Blue"]It seems the meter needed to be set to a higher Ohm setting.[/COLOR]
You should use the most sensitive scale usually 200 ohms.
The problem using a higher meter scale is that lower ohms readings ( such as the motor windings which are just a couple ohms) will show 0 which is a dead short so would indicate a blown motor.

Below are the revised readings. The motor has but one red wire. The motor harness wires are: black, green, red, gray, yellow, blue (Left-Right). The timer is set to timed dry-about at the midpoint.

Was the start button pushed and the door switch closed when you read the white. If yes then it looks like a bad door switch.
[COLOR="Blue"] Door switch – yellow - 0 (when start button pressed)
Door switch – white - 1
White terminal strip - 1
White cord prong - 1
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Blue"]The door switch was removed when I took the readings. It seems only when the start button is pressed and held that there is any resistance (the 0 reading) with the yellow door switch wire.[/COLOR]
This is what you would expect because the yellow goes to one side of the push to start and the other side connects in the rest of the dryer.
It also goes to the motor's centrifugal switch but this is open when the motor is at rest.

[COLOR="Blue"]The readings from the unwired door switch prongs (the two outter ones for the white and yellow wires) show resistance when the door switch button is pressed) I.e., 0.[/COLOR]

This also looks OK.

So I am stumped.
The following does not make sense
[COLOR="Blue"]Motor – gray - 0
Motor - red - 1
Push start button - red - 0
[/COLOR]
When you measure from gray to red at the motor switches you are measuring the motor windings so there should be a resistance reading.
The start and run windings are in parallel and both are in circuit when the motor is at rest. Each one is usually around 4 ohms so you should read 2 ohms, approximately.
Then when you read to the red at the push to start you have a resistance.
These two points should give the same reading as they are connected by the red wire.
Check that the wire from the motor to the start switch is OK.
Disconnect one end of it and measure it.
It should be 0 ohms.