Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/17/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
|
I discovered today that all of a sudden my GE Side by Side fridge is not cooling. Things are thawing in my freezer and the fridge side is not as cool as it should be.
I have cleaned the condenser coil as well as I can. The compressor seems to be running and sounds normal. I found a plugged drain line and cleared it. I have unplugged it and restarted it.
There doesn't seem to be any air blowing into the fridge side. There is air blowing into the freezer side, but it doesn't seem to be as cold as it should be. (What temperature should it be?)
The compressor itself seems hot to the touch, but not so hot I can't keep my hand on it.
There are no other obvious problems that I can find. Can you help me please?
I have meters and tools and experience working on other things. Refrigerator cooling systems are not something I've had much experience with.
Any and all help would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for GSH25KGPA - AppliancePartsPros.comYou seem to be missing the last couple digits of the model number so will have to choose the correct unit in the Matching Model Numbers section. I am assuming that the compressor runs all the time except when the unit goes through a defrost cycle. Check the freezer temperature. It should be around 0 to 5 degrees F. If it is not correct. Remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils. If they are heavily iced/frosted over, then you have a defrost problem. If there is just frost in one area (usually where the freon enters the coils), then it is a sealed system problem. This will be an expensive repair and often it makes more sense to put the dollars towards a new unit. Be sure that the compressor has run at least an hour before doing the inspection. If you do it during or shortly after a defrost cycle you could end up with the wrong diagnosis. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/17/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
|
Hey denman, I have taken the cover off the back and the evaporator coils are completely covered in frost and ice. I have let it thaw out and have cleaned the unit.
How do I check (and what all do I check) to find the root of the problem?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/17/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
|
After doing some brief poking around with a multi-meter, it appears my defrost heater is bad. Visually, the heater looks darkened and I get no readings when I try a resistance test.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Sounds like you have found the problem. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/17/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
|
Is there anything else that could have caused the heater to go bad or is it normal for them to burn out like that? Also, how do I test the thermostat (what resistance should I get, I guess) and should I replace it as well?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
The heaters just go bad and there is really noting that causes it.
The thermostat should measure 0 ohms when frozen.
Also if it is deformed/bulged replace it even if it measures OK.
It should open at 140 degrees F. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
