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Whirlpool fridge won't run on generator
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Model: ET25DMXBN00 Brand: Whirlpool Age: More than 10 years
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manny22  
#1 Posted : Sunday, November 16, 2014 10:43:40 AM(UTC)
manny22

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Hi all -

I've got a 20-year old Whirlpool fridge, model ET25DMXBN00. Runs fine normally. The problem is, it won't start up when running off the generator - a Generac GP7000, a brushless, capacitor type with no voltage regulator. It's hooked up to the house using a Reliance transfer switch.

The fridge light comes on, the temp dial "clicks" when moving it from Off to a higher temp setting, and a very faint sound like a fan (can't be sure what it is exactly) can be heard in the freezer compartment. But otherwise, nothing.

This happens even when the fridge is the only circuit switched over to the generator. I measured about 115V, 62Hz at the fridge outlet with the generator running.

The helpful rep I spoke with online here believes the voltage is just too low. (Our normal line voltage is about 123V.) That's probably true, but the label on the fridge says "115V." Is it the low voltage combined with the age of the fridge?

If anyone has ideas on what to try to narrow this down, I'd appreciate it!

Thanks!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, November 17, 2014 1:52:50 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool ET25DMXBN00 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

[COLOR="Blue"]Runs fine normally.[/COLOR]
So when plugged into city power it runs no problem, correct?

Confirm that the evaporator/freezer fan and the condenser/compressor fan are turning on. They and the compressor should all be on at the same time.

[COLOR="Blue"]I measured about 115V, 62Hz at the fridge outlet with the generator running.
Is it the low voltage combined with the age of the fridge?[/COLOR]
The voltage you measure is not low.
The fridge should be able to run with no problems down to 110 volts and perhaps even lower.
[COLOR="Blue"]
If anyone has ideas on what to try to narrow this down, I'd appreciate it![/COLOR]
It is the current and voltage that is important here.
Check the voltage when the unit is trying to start.
It should stay fairly close to the 115 volts.
Check it at the fridge and also at the generator.
Could be that the wire used for hook up is too small and is dropping the voltage from the generator to the fridge.
Or may have something to do with your transfer switch.

I looked up the specs for the generator and if I found the correct info, it should put out 7000 watts constant and be able to do short stints at 8700 watts.
This should be more than enough to start the fridge.
It's start wattage will be in the 1500 to 2000 watt range.

You could hump the generator inside and hook the fridge directly to it.
Just be sure there are lots of windows open.
This would at least tell you if it is a generator or the wiring from the generator to the fridge problem.

One thing to be careful of is to keep your tests as short as possible.
Compressors do not like running or trying to run off of low power and they can burn out fairly easily.
File Attachment(s):
ET25DM.pdf (118kb) downloaded 4 time(s).
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manny22  
#3 Posted : Monday, November 17, 2014 1:57:35 PM(UTC)
manny22

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Thanks for responding! Some quick comments:

So when plugged into city power it runs no problem, correct?
Confirm that the evaporator/freezer fan and the condenser/compressor fan are turning on. They and the compressor should all be on at the same time.
Yes, it runs with no problem when plugged into city power. I'm assuming that the freezer fan is running since cold air is blowing into the freezer. As far as the condenser/compressor fan, I’m not sure how to determine if that is on. But both the freezer and refrigerator compartments are cold, and overall the fridge works as it always has.

Check the voltage when the unit is trying to start.
It should stay fairly close to the 115 volts.
Check it at the fridge and also at the generator.
Okay, I’ll do that and post the results. It'll take me a day or so.

Could be that the wire used for hook up is too small and is dropping the voltage from the generator to the fridge.
Or may have something to do with your transfer switch.
The wire for hooking up the transfer switch is “10-gauge building wire” (as per the Reliance transfer switch manual.)

You could hump the generator inside and hook the fridge directly to it.
Just be sure there are lots of windows open.
This would at least tell you if it is a generator or the wiring from the generator to the fridge problem.
I’m not sure if I’ll be able to get the generator into the house. Would it be just as good a test to use a 50-ft “heavy duty” extension cord directly from the generator to the fridge?
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denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, November 17, 2014 4:27:29 PM(UTC)
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[COLOR="Blue"] Would it be just as good a test to use a 50-ft “heavy duty” extension cord directly from the generator to the fridge?[/COLOR]
Yes I would think that would do the job.
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manny22  
#5 Posted : Thursday, November 20, 2014 12:48:47 PM(UTC)
manny22

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Okay, here's what I've got:

Test 1: With gen hooked up through transfer switch, getting 116V at the fridge outlet with fridge off. Turning fridge on, saw it drop to 110V for less than a second, then come up to ~ 112V, but never make it back to 116V. Left fridge on for about 5 seconds.

Test 2: Connected fridge directly to standard outlet on gen using 25ft 13A extension cord. Getting 116V at cord outlet. Fridge wouldn't start.

In both cases, fridge acted the same as before - a very faint fan-like sound in the freezer, but clearly no cold air blowing anywhere and no normal fan / compressor sounds.
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denman  
#6 Posted : Friday, November 21, 2014 2:01:53 AM(UTC)
denman

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Well this has stumped me.
My experience on generators is very limited to say the least.
It should start.
I am assuming the generator did not bog down or show any symptom of it working too hard.
I have looked up the info on this unit at the manufacturers site and cannot find anything that would cause problems.

I have only installed one generator and that was several years ago.
I remember that I did have problems getting it to run properly.
If my memory is correct it had something to do with the ground setup in the generator and it was popping one of the circuit breakers on the unit.
Also caused the engine to bog when a load was applied.
They had grounded one of the receptacle Neutrals to the frame.
I think I fixed this by installing an insulator at that receptacle.
My memory is pretty cloudy about this so I may be wrong on it.

All I can suggest is to contact the generator manufacturer which you have probably already done.

Perhaps the following would give you some additional info but it is grasping at straws.

1. Drag the unit over to a friends house and try plugging a different fridge in to see if it will run.

2. Using the direct hookup get a two prong adapter that will let you plug the fridge in without connecting in it's ground prong. This is just for testing as it could be dangerous to run a fridge without a ground re: the case/frame could go live if there is a problem in the fridge.

Sorry but I am out of ideas on this one.
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manny22  
#7 Posted : Friday, November 21, 2014 6:02:12 AM(UTC)
manny22

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No problem, thanks for your help on this.

I'll try the two-prong test. And just FYI -

- You're correct, the generator showed no signs of bogging down. I could hear it running from where the fridge is.

- As far as the ground goes, I changed the generator from "neutral bonded" ground to "floating neutral," which from what I read is how it should be when it's hooked up via a transfer switch.

- I've contacted Generac about this and there were less than helpful, which matches what I've read about them. The only suggestion they ever seem to have is "bring the generator to an authorized service center."

- I haven't dragged it to a friend's house, but did a similar test by trying to get it to start a dehumidifier in the basement, on a receptacle hanging off the load center. Same result - the dehumidifier wouldn't start!
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denman  
#8 Posted : Friday, November 21, 2014 2:03:17 PM(UTC)
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[COLOR="Blue"]- As far as the ground goes, I changed the generator from "neutral bonded" ground to "floating neutral," which from what I read is how it should be when it's hooked up via a transfer switch.[/COLOR]
Not sure what their procedure is but I would check that it is actually floating by checking the resistance from Neutral to the frame.
When you said this it rang a bell. I am pretty sure this is similar to the situation I had but just disconnecting wires did not work because one of the receptacles they used had Neutral to ground shorted together internally. So I had to insulate the receptacle mount from the frame.

[COLOR="Blue"]- I haven't dragged it to a friend's house, but did a similar test by trying to get it to start a dehumidifier in the basement, on a receptacle hanging off the load center. Same result - the dehumidifier wouldn't start![/COLOR]
Not sure why but for some reason it just does not like to run refrigeration compressors.
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