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Joined: 11/11/2014(UTC) Posts: 2
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Hi All;
I have an old Magic Chef wall oven (B59FN5TVW) and the broil element won't work. The element is fine and it's the controller/clock (7601P180-60) that's the problem. I've removed the controller and determined that the broiler relay has a cracked/cold solder joint (I can actually see it). The repair is simply to re-solder the terminal. The controller is no longer available so replacement is not possible (I've done that before)
The problem is, this controller consists of 3 circuit boards stacked one on top of the other within a plastic front mounting plate. There are plastic posts which hold the relay board to the assembly. The problem is these posts have been intentionally melted at the factory (probably to prevent repair attempts) and I can see no way to separate the boards so I can get to the rear side of the relay board to re-solder it. I know that there are companies who will repair these controllers so there must be some way to separate them without destroying the fixture. I'm quite handy with electronics and would like to do the repair myself - mostly to save the down time of shipping the controller and possibly losing it.
Does anyone have experience repairing this controller and know how to separate the boards? Any help getting these darn boards apart would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance Amnesia
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Hopefully someone else will jump in who has actually repaired this timer as all I can give is general info.
Since you can see the cold solder joint why can you not repair it the way it is?
I cannot get e decent view of the control so I do not know if the following will help. On most control board sandwiches all the board to board wire jumpers are on one edge of the board. The other edge is held with either screws or plastic clips. Undo the screws or clips and carefully bend the board out so you can get to it's solder side. The wire jumpers will bend some without breaking.
I have done this but not on this particular control assembly so I do have a little experience at it.
I do not think that they are hard wired together just to prevent repair. It is just cheaper and in the long run more reliable to hard wire them together (re: no connectors). |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/11/2014(UTC) Posts: 2
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"Since you can see the cold solder joint why can you not repair it the way it is?"
[COLOR="Red"]Because its on the wrong side of the board (facing in) I can just barely see it but no way to get a soldering iron in without ruining other components[/COLOR]
"The other edge is held with either screws or plastic clips"
[COLOR="Red"]Like I said in the post, there are no screws or clips. just a melted plastic pin. If you haven't actually worked on one of these boards, you wouldn't have any idea what i'm talking about.[/COLOR]
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Cut or file or grind the plastic that is holding the board down and then lift it up.
The problem is not getting it apart the problem is getting it back together.
You have a couple options.
One is to push the board back down onto the stud then if you have a fine tip soldering iron push it into the stud end melting it and letting it overflow up to hold the board. Problem here is that getting the heat/time can be difficult. If the plastic gets too hot it burns and the over flow will just bust off.
If you have a small drill and small screws. Drill into the center of the post and install a screw to hold the board down.
Sometimes you can use zip ties to hold the board onto the studs. |
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