Bottom oven just stopped working the other day out of the blue. Top Oven works just fine. Bottom oven (broil and bake elements) will not heat at all. Self Clean will not work either. The clock and display work just fine. When you press bake and set the temp and you can hear a click to start the elements but no heat (you hear a click under normal use even when it cycles the elements on and off while maintaining proper temp and upon startup). About another minute later another click and so forth. The display just shows 100 degrees, normal starting display temp.

Tested coils, temp sensor, for continuity=good! coils getting electricity, tested thermal switch=good. Stumped.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

HERES THE CONRUNDUM. Tested all the points on the upper oven and compared them to the lower. Same. Same voltage, continuity with wires removed, all the same with oven on and off.

Replace relay?

Looks like I messed up and linked to the timer guide instead of the wiring diagram.

Below is the wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...assomption/318046110.pdf

You need to see the 240 volts.
Using Neutral/ground/frame can be confusing because Neutral is not part of the heater circuit.

As an example.
Using the wiring diagram and Neutral as the meter reference.
Lets say the DLB relay does not close but the Bake relay does.
You will see 120 volts at the right side of the element (L2 Voltage).
You will also see it on the left hand side of the Bake element. There is not circuit path due to the DLB relay contacts being open. So you see the same L2 voltage because there will not be a voltage drop across the element unless there is current flow. You also see it at the right side of the Broil element as it feed back through the broil.

Now lets say that the DLB and Bake element relays are OK and closed.
Again you see 120 volts (L2) on the right side of the elements.
You also see 120 volts on the left side of the Bake element but now it is L1 voltage. There is also 120 volts at the right side of the Broil element but it is L1 voltage because the broil relay is open.
You now have 240 volts across the bake element and it should heat up.

I hope I did a decent job explaining the above.

Just in case.
Your house wiring is actually two 120 volt supplies that share a common Neutral.
So L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral measure 120 volts.
But the supplies are 180 degrees out of phase. In other words when one is at positive 120 the other is at negative 120.
So if you measure L1 to L2 you get 240 volts.

[COLOR="Blue"]Hence based on our prior correspondence it looks like it's a relay problem? [/COLOR]
Yes that is my feeling also.
You could check this by measuring from BK-2 to BK-2 (the DLB relay contacts).
If you see 240 volts when the oven should be on then you know for sure that the contacts are not closing.
Problem is I do not know how tight it is in there and messing with 240 in confined spaces is not a good idea.

[COLOR="Blue"]Since the oven relays are the same age is it worth spending another 200 bucks on a 10+year oven to replace the other relay?[/COLOR]
This I cannot advise on.
It all depends on what shape the ovens are in.
Also how happy you are with them
Also what a replacement unit that you will be happy with is going to cost you.

There is a cheap fix if you can get the numbers off the DLB relay and hunt down a replacement. Digikey has many relays. Then either you or a friend with electronics/soldering experience can just replace the relay.
If it is the below problem then this of course will not fix it.

[COLOR="Blue"]Also how do we know it's not the actual control board sending the messages to the relay?[/COLOR]
We don't.
So replacing just the relay may not fix it.
Troubleshooting a problem like this is a pain as they do not publish board schematics so you have to signal trace it.

Denman,

You have helped us in the past with a Frigidaire electric oven. Now we have great difficulty in making the up down arrows work. Sometimes they do most times not. Any suggestions?