I would say that both are probably OK.

The spec is 48K to 52K @ 77 degrees F and you are fairly close.
The 57 and 60 you see on the meter will be in thousands (K's).
Also if the ambient temperature is colder than 77 degrees the resistance will be higher than the 48 to 50.

I replaced the door switch, hooked the drain hose and electrical wires back up, and ran a new Normal cycle. It ran through the entire cycle with no issues! Thank you for all of your help, denman!

I do have another question or two. Does the hi-limit thermostat need to be in a specific location to operate properly? i.e. is there a sensor in the thermostat that reads the surrounding air/surface temperature? I was able to remove the thermostat from underneath the dishwasher originally without too much trouble (had to buy a shorter screwdriver), but I had a lot of trouble last night trying to get it reattached. Most of the problem (I think) is that I can't locate the exact location where the bracket was attached originally. It was screwed in with one screw, but I think part of the bracket itself was also tucked into a slot or something. Not positive though. I felt around under the unit for quite some time but couldn't come up with a location that felt right. I did find a post extending down that felt like it had a tiny hole in it, so I tried to screw the bracket into that hole and the screw went part way in, so it's at least attached to something now and not sitting on the floor. Just wondering if that's going to be okay long-term, or if I need to put more work into getting it attached the original way.

The mirror idea was helpful in determining that, as best as I could tell with the mirror, I had the thermostat in the proper position and just needed to tighten the screw down more - which I successfully did.

Problem is - I'm right back to the dishwasher getting stuck at 63 minutes remaining. So it's back to square one with the testing procedures tomorrow - will see if anything tests differently than the last time around.

When I initially tested the new door switch last night I couldn't get an exact 0 reading - it would go as low as 0.03 - 0.05, but not 0.00. When I re-tested it later in the evening it was 0.00. Assuming the 0.03 readings are close enough to 0 to be irrelevant. If I'm incorrect on that assumption please let me know.

I ran another cycle this morning without the control board cover and it got stuck at 63 minutes. The problem thus appears to be somewhat random.

I ran it through the Service Diagnostics Cycle this morning and no issues showed up there.

Am I looking at a control board replacement? Or possible door switch issue still? Or something else?