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blewis123456  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2014 8:26:45 AM(UTC)
blewis123456

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I just received the new timer, and looks like a match. Watched the installation video and put it in.However, after installing it, the dryer still does not work. :mad: Confirmed the part (WPL 33002803) is compatible, but absolutely no activity when connected. PLEASE HELP! Suggestions welcome
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2014 9:57:50 AM(UTC)
denman

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Need more info on what "no activity" means.

Does the drum light work?
What if anything comes on?
Why did you replace the timer in the first place?
What if any troubleshooting did you do to confirm that the timer was the problem?
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
blewis123456  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2014 10:15:14 AM(UTC)
blewis123456

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Need more info on what "no activity" means.

Does the drum light work?
What if anything comes on?
Why did you replace the timer in the first place?
What if any troubleshooting did you do to confirm that the timer was the problem?



Thanks for replying!!!
Drum light does work but when turning dial for dryer to come on, no luck. Had to replace timer because the kids broke the shaft when turning it on (says to pull and hold to turn on and they pulled a little too hard). Minus that, the dryer has worked flawlessly and is in excellent condition otherwise. Sticker/label on the new timer says WHIRLPOOL33002803 and the broken timer says MAYTAG63721230, but they look/fit identical.
denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2014 11:17:00 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MDE6400AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

Take a look at item 7 in section 02 to double check that you have the correct timer.
I could not find info on the old timer number you gave.

See the attachment as to what changed.

Below is a link to a manual.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to down load it.
http://appliancejunk.com...ownloads;sa=view;down=67

It does not have your specific unit but by looking at the wiring diagram included in the parts you should be able to find a close match to yours or at least some general info on how they put them together.

Do not worry about the heater section of the unit it has nothing to do with the unit starting.

First check the power to the unit.
Looking at the wiring, ignore my earlier post about the drum light. On this unit it uses L2 power and the motor uses L1 power so I would start by checking the power to the unit.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]
File Attachment(s):
MDE6400 timer .pdf (77kb) downloaded 11 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
blewis123456  
#5 Posted : Friday, November 7, 2014 7:08:24 AM(UTC)
blewis123456

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Joined: 11/5/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MDE6400AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

Take a look at item 7 in section 02 to double check that you have the correct timer.
I could not find info on the old timer number you gave.

See the attachment as to what changed.

Below is a link to a manual.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to down load it.
http://appliancejunk.com...ownloads;sa=view;down=67

It does not have your specific unit but by looking at the wiring diagram included in the parts you should be able to find a close match to yours or at least some general info on how they put them together.

Do not worry about the heater section of the unit it has nothing to do with the unit starting.

First check the power to the unit.
Looking at the wiring, ignore my earlier post about the drum light. On this unit it uses L2 power and the motor uses L1 power so I would start by checking the power to the unit.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!



MANY, MANY, MANY THANKS TO YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The attached pdf discussing how an additional bus was added to the timer thus removing one of the pins worked! I used the diagram and adjusted the white wire position in the harness, and BOOM! Works great! Thanks so much for the help out. My family and I appreciate it!!!
denman  
#6 Posted : Saturday, November 8, 2014 12:37:06 AM(UTC)
denman

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You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
modnar  
#7 Posted : Friday, February 27, 2015 6:24:17 PM(UTC)
modnar

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Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/27/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1

I had the same symptoms as the original poster. AppliancePartsPros said I needed a new wiring harness, but the one they had me order has many differences (connectors and wires) from my old one.

My old timer and the new timer I ordered line up exactly with what the OP psoted, and my original timer connector lines up with the "old timer" connector in the PDF attached to the initial reply.

Does that mean I just need to adjust my pins in my existing timer connector to match the new timer connector in the PDF? It looks like the red and white pins need to move.

I am now being told that a different harness ([FONT='Comic Sans MS']3002805/AP4043084) [/FONT]will actually work with my dryer and timer. Obviously, moving pins on the timer connector is easier and cheaper, but I don't want to do it if it's not safe or correct.

Thanks!
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