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I dont know how old it is.
It trips a gfic socket. If I plug it into a regular grounded socket, it trips the 20a non gfic breaker. If I put a two way adapter on it to isolate the 3rd grounded wire, it runs fine. However PLEASE dont tell me that is dangerious. I know it is. I need to fix it. I dont see any obvious shorting on the power cable. I have a DVM and basic electrical knowledge.
maytag model MTB1753AR. It worksd fine for years, then one day after it was moved out to clean the floor, then moved back and then it started tripping the gfic and even a non gfic breaker as long as its grounded. Previously it worked fine in the gric or in a grounded regular socket.
ideas?
tks,
pa
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Most probably a compressor winding shorted to the frame.
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Here are your parts Parts for Maytag MTB1753ARW Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comYes it sounds like you have a live to unit frame short. Can you tell what is turning on when it trips the breaker or is it as soon as you plug it in? Turn the temperature control to off. If it does not trip then the basic wiring and wiring to the lights (which should still work) is OK. If the above checks out OK. Unplug it and set the control to cool. Take a look at the defrost timer. There is usually a ho;le in the cover so this can be done without dismantling things. Note where the timer cam is in it's rotation. Then rotate the defrost timer cam. In a 360 degrees rotation you can usually hear two clicks. This is the turning on defrost and then turning off defrost. They will be fairly close together as the rest of the rotation is the cooling mode. Now see if the timer was in defrost or cooling mode. Then move it to the other mode. Then plug it in. If you are now in defrost (fans and compressor stay off) and it does not blow then odds are that it is in the compressor or start device. If you are now in cooling mode and it does not blow odds are that it is in the defrost circuit. Most likely the defrost timer but could be the heater or defrost thermostat. I hope i explained the above OK. Basically you are trying to eliminate parts of the unit so that you do not have to disconnect a part at a time till you find the fault. See the attachments for wiring your may not be an exact match but it is probably close. denman attached the following image(s): |
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"Can you tell what is turning on when it trips the breaker or is it as soon as you plug it in?" When it cycled off, I removed the grnd isolator and plugged it in and waited. Several minutes later I just barely heard the start of something and then the breaker tripped.
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"Turn the temperature control to off.
If it does not trip then the basic wiring and wiring to the lights (which should still work) is OK."
does not trip.
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"Take a look at the defrost timer.
There is usually a ho;le in the cover so this can be done without dismantling things."
I cant find a hole.
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pics The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters. File Attachment(s):  ele.jpg (274kb) downloaded 11 time(s).paulmars attached the following image(s):
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6.6 and 2.7 ohms from hot and neutral (or neutral and hot) wires to frig metal case.
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I am assuming that you are measuring to the start and run windings on the compressor. Since they measure the same from Neutral and Hot (line) I would say you have a dead short from Neutral to Hot. Measure from neutral to hot if it is 0 ohms then start disconnecting things till you find the short. The compessor is the most likely as richappy said. The following may also be helpful to you. http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&a...mp;bvm=bv.78677474,d.aWw |
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Originally Posted by: denman  I will check. If its zero ohms, then the frig would not work and the breaker would pop. Still i will check to see that it is. I read almost 1/2 those posts at that link. I dont know what a 3 in one is. I could look it up, but Im not sure why. p
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