how do i replace bearing in a ge washer that is making a noise when it goes in spin

I know there are probably a lot of different GE washers out there, but mine (a GE Profile top load washer from about 2001) was roaring like a jet engine and it was the lower bearing. The tub seal had begun leaking, and it caused the bearing failure.

This bearing CAN be replaced by someone with significant DIY skills for under $50 (probably a lot less). The lower bearning is not inside the transmission, but it did require transmission removal in order to replace it.

The bearing is a special one with metric OD and thickness, but SAE ID of EXACTLY 1", hence the part number 6205-2RS-1. The -1 at the end means excatly 1". The more typical 6205-2RS is 25mm, but 1 inch is 25.4 mm, meaning the shaft of the transmission is .4 mm too large for the metric ID bearing. Be sure to order the correct bearing. Also order a tub seal (likely, the root of the problem in the first place) and the spanner wrench for GE washers in order to remove the LEFT-HAND thread tub nut.

I made the entire repair in about 5 hours total. A service pro could probably do it in half the time, but I did it for under $30. You will also need to search the web to learn how to remove the agitator and the brake cam (neither were obvious to me, but there are excellent internet videos and photos of everything, and it wasn't difficult).

I know this is an old post I am replying to, and I'm sure that the writer intends well, but someone who encounters this information first may give up too easily, when the repair is definitely do-able by a capable DIY'er.

I've done this job and created a web page showing the details.

http://home.comcast.net/~fairba...sion/GEtransmission.html

I get the bearings from bearingsdirect.com for $10

6205-2rs-1 special size ball bearing 1 inch x 52 x 15 mm

Eric

After you slide the retaining ring down, place a 1" length of schedule 40 pvc pipe over shaft and against the retaining ring. Press down on pipe to compress springs and retaining ring will snap into shaft groove.

Eric

It was, in fact, fairbank56's excellent photo essay of the dissassembly process for the brake and support that supplied most of the missing pieces of the puzzle. Removing the bearing from the support itself was the process I had to invent on my own. I was working on a wooden workbench, so I screwed the support to the top of the bench with some wood screws. Doing this left both hands free to use a hammer and a center punch on the bearing race. Once I had created a gap between the bearing and the support, I was able to use a flathead screwdriver for a little more "persuasion."

NOTE: When re-installing the bearing into the support, be sure to use "persuasion" on the outer bearing race only. To apply impact or pressure on the inner race could damage the seal or the bearing.

By the way, to compress the brake springs I used three wide jaw locking pliers that I ordinarily use for clamping patch panels in place for welding when I have to replace sections of body panels on a car or truck I am restoring. I realize not everyone would have these, but they were exactly what I needed. I didn't even think of C-clamps, but that would have been just as good.