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This is an ongoing issue and I expect to replace every part on this refrigerator before I'm done :-/
The problem is the freezer temperature sensor: it measures temperature accurately (more or less) until the temp gets to about 26-28 degrees F according to the panel display. Then, it more often than not drops to -8 F and stays there, regardless of the actual temperature in the freezer.
This results in the compressor operating properly until the freezer temp goes below 26, then it shuts off until the temp rises back to 29 or so. Obviously, I don't get any ice production unless I press the reset button, and the freezer is pretty marginal temperature-wise.
Haven't tested the fridge temp yet but it seems OK.
At this point I have replaced the PCB and the freezer temp sensor. I ordered the sensor from APP; we had some trouble finding the part number on the diagram and the one that came had the wrong connector on it, but I was able to swap the connector from the old sensor and they are both the PCX 41 sensor so I think that's OK (but I'd like to get the REAL sensor eventually, I'm picky that way.)
I did a slurry test on both sensors and they both read around 13,300 ohms in the slurry so I don't think the sensor is the problem.
I have read in some places that wacky behavior like this can be caused by a marginal power supply to the PCB - does the PCB get its power from the PCB inverter? Can I test the inverter for proper voltage? (Although I think it is messing up under load which would account for intermittent behavior.)
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Rank: Member
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I tested voltages and such on the PCB board and found a significant drop in when the compressor / defroster is on. It turns out that the refrigerator temp sensor is also reading different tmeps than actual (although it doesn't peg out at -8 like the freezer one does.)
When I shut the fridge off for 10 minutes this afternoon and then started it back up, the temp sensors read accurately-ish until the compressor came on; then things went wacky again.
I think this may be the EMI Coil filter (DA27-00019) going bad. I have seen all sorts of bizarre behavior in computers when the EMI coils in a power supply start to fail.
Has anyone had experience with a coil filter going bad on a fridge and causing erratic behavior like this? I've searched a few appliance boards and found washers and dryers that malfunctioned strangely when the the EMI filter started to go bad.
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Rank: Member
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I am having the exact same problem. I have tried everything. Self diagnostic test in Engineer Mode doesn's list any problems but what you described is my exact problem. Freezer LCD reads -6, but an actual thermometer i put in there reads 25...fridge is set at 34 but is actually 41. When I restart fridge, actualy temps are displayed on LCD and they go down over time, but the actual thermometer doesnt go down. Everything sounds find and is running according to the Load test in engineer mode.
Did you figure it out? I have a tech coming out next friday but id rather not have to pay him...
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Rank: Member
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Yeah; not good news.
FYI, there are multiple thermistors in the 4267. In both the freezer and fridge, there is one on the evap coil and one in the cabinet. The icemaker also has one. If they are just mis-reading you won't get an error on the panel. You only get the error if the circuit is open (broken wire).
My problem looks to be a sealed system issue. I started replacing temp sensors on the advice of another tech - however, when I got the back panels off and looked at both evaporators, I found that there was only frost / ice for the first few inches at the top - a classic indicator of compressor / refrigerant issues. Since the freezer thermistor is mounted in that area, it reads cold while the cabinet is not cooling correctly - hence you get weird readings on the panel.
The good news is that the sealed system has a better warranty - 5 years. If yours turns out to be a compressor or evap issue take it up with Samsung!
ps - the motherboard generates its own DC for sensors and such so the EMI coil can't be the issue. I now know a lot more about this box than I did 4 weeks ago :-/
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Rank: Member
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Picture of the freezer evap below - freezer thermistor circled. The fins of the evap should have even frost all the way, you can see only the top row has frost in this case (red arrows) 
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Rank: Member
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I actually have the RF4289HARS, but the problem was indentical and the model numbers weren't far off. I didn't look at the coils yet to see if they look the same but the problem you listed is verbatim my problem. Even I only noticed it when the was no ice....luckily i didn't replace the ice machine ;) I'm cheap! Got a tech scheduled but can't come out until next friday and cost $125 just for the visit...but if its a sealed system, its only 2 years old, so I guess there may be some silver lining.
Have you gotten yours fixed yet? A tech come out? Covered under warranty? Thanks for the response, not gonna lie, I was praying you would because your posts on the different sites are the best thing I could find.
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Rank: Member
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Tech comes tomorrow will let you know how it turns out.
Also FYI: some of the people I have spoken to say the wider models like yours have a longer warranty on the sealed system - 10 years.
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Rank: Member
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Okay, yea if you could let me know that would be incredibly useful. 5year sealed system, 10 year inverter.
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Rank: Member
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Verdict: Sealed system leak on the low pressure side and weak compressor. Tech is putting an order into Samsung for replacement compressor and drier. There was a fine sheen of compressor oil on some of the pipes feeding the compressor, so the leak is most likely there. It is also possible the leak is a tiny pinhole in one of the evaporators; he is going to run a vacuum test when he replaces the compressor.
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Rank: Member
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Hey,
So my tech came out today. First of all, he wasn't even certified in sealed systems. He came to the conclusion he thinks there is a leak somewhere and the Freon is low. Samsung is saying that's not covered in the sealed system. You have any thoughts on that? I feel that the fridge is too new (2 years), hasn't really been moved or anything, compressor isn't always on, so I don't think its just a leak.
Is yours fixed?
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