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Hello! I noticed my dishes (plastic specifically) had a greasy cloudy film and nothing was drying. I saw a burned out spot on the heating element and picked up a new one locally and installed it. My uncle was in town and helped take it apart - We had a hard time disconnecting the wires on the bottom so he said "remember when you put this back together (he would already be gone) that it was hard to take apart so it will be hard to connect properly". it went back together pretty easily actually. Setting in the wires/nut/terminal went well. It wasn't hard to connect them at all. They feel secure. But no heat. Could I have another problem? Additional damage from the heating element being out? additionally, I have these small white plastic "washers" for lack of a better term and I am trying to figure out how exactly they go in...the appliancepartspro video on youtube for this element didn't show these tiny white plastic washers...
guys- I am on my own here. My uncle went back home and my dad dropped by and said "I don't know anything about dishwashers" and is dozing on my couch...
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: gerry d  I have seen this. I put the little white washer in as noted already. I talked to a family friend who does appliance repair on the side (who doesn't have time to come over dang it) and he said double triple check that it is actually connected correctly so element will heat. Going back to do that. Again.
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Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WDT710PAYM0 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. I do not know what the small white washers are for. As long as there is a rubber washer on the element legs inside the dishwasher tub it should be OK as far as leaks. Remove power from the unit. Check the heater for resistance should be around 20 ohms. If OK Check the hi-limit thermostat (item 15 in section 05). It should be 0 ohms. IF OK Check P4-3 to P4-4 at the control board. You should see the heater element resistance. If not there is a problem with the wiring. If OK then the control board is probably bad. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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