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Thermal fuse repeatedly blown on Whirlpool Duet
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My Whirlpool Duet dryer (WED9200SQ0) stopped running a couple of weeks ago. The lights and sounds worked, but pressing and holding the Start button emitted a small click, but nothing happened.
After researching on this site, the most likely culprit was the thermal fuse. At the time the dryer stopped, I determined that my children had repeatedly used it without cleaning the lint filter. Figuring that to be the cause of the overheating, I replaced the thermal fuse (and instructed the family on how and when to properly clean the filter), and the dryer worked. For about a week.
So, reopened the dryer and thought I better poke around a bit. I remove the lint filter duct and found it nearly full of lint. So I cleaned that out. I checked that the blower fan moved easily. I inspected the duct from the back of the blower to where it exits the dryer, and it was clean.
I replaced the duct from the dryer to the wall (we had one of those flexible dryer duct tubes) with new dryer duct pipe.
And the dryer worked. For one night.
So, now i figure that I need to do something else. But I am not sure what that something else is.
I would be grateful for some suggestions.
Best,
Tom
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/13/2014(UTC)
Posts: 5
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I'm having the same exact issue.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/12/2014(UTC)
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In the dark ages when i was an appliance tech, when I got a call for this sort of thing, I would look at where the dryer vented and how it got there. Was it over the river and through the floor? Did it exit on a flapper vent outside. Where the exits painted, plastered, shut or otherwise obscured. The longer it was betwen fuse blow outs the further it was from the back of the dryer.
When i got these calls I would pretty much take the dryer apart, and vacuum it out,Including the vent way for the lint screen.
You might find someone in the trade who will do this for you for a reasonable cost. You will pay less for drying your clothes and your dryer will no longer be a potential fire hazard
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Rank: Member
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BonesandFeathers, thank you for your response. I've checked for blockage and none was found. I'm looking at my high limit thermostat. What do you think?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/12/2014(UTC)
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get a stick thermometer, that has an upward range of 200 degrees or so.
Turn the dryer on, put the thermometer in the exhaust, and see what temperatures it' cycling at for low, permanent press, and high. Is your dryer gas or electric? Back in the dark ages i'd replace both if it was electric( for my own peace of mind)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/13/2014(UTC)
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It's electric. It won't run right now. I'm waiting on my 2nd thermal fuse to come in.
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Rank: Member
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Well the new thermal fuse came in and I noticed that the element heats up when on air only. I shut everything down before I blew this fuse. I'll search the forum for an answer to that problem. Any ideas where to go from here?
Several are leaning towards a heating element that is touching the box. I checked it with my ohmmeter and thought it checked good, but then again I really don't know that much about using the ohm setting.
I just checked my heater relay. It appears fried.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 18
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OHM's are a measurement of resistance, to electron flow. Simple as that. So the more ohms you have, the greater the resistance. Look at these for some help with your explorations ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ftc3EQGZowk)and here ( How to Use a Multimeter: 25 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow) Basically if you have continuity, think of a light switch, when the switch is off the circuit is open, when the switch is closed, the circuit is closed. Then you have dimmers where the light can me made brighter or dimmer, so the switch varies the amount of resistance to produce a brighter or dimmer light>>>>less or more resistance, less or more ohms. IMHO if the element was touching the heater box you would have readily available evidence, of burn marks, discoloration or the like. But to check the cover, the heat shield should come off w/o too much trouble as the elements are made to be replaced. Did i mention to unplug the dryer? This is especially important in a 220 Volt environment, as 220 V is enough to do you major harm if not kill you. The 220/240V connection splits off into two 110/120 paths to run the timer, drive motor and lights. It re-converges at the element as 220/240v 120/110v. If there are no scorch marks, discoloration on the heater enclosure, you should be good to go in this regard. FWIW, there should be no current to the element, during the air only cycle, so except for residual heat from the clothes there should be no heat coming from the exhaust.. I would look at replacing the operating stat, as it will control the various ranges of heat available(low,Perm press,high)I would replace the high limit stat, and the operating stat. This place has a 365 day return policy, if you end up not needing it they'll buy it back. let me know how it goes
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/13/2014(UTC)
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My dryer ha been fixed. I replaced the control board and it has been running fine all day. Finally no crunchy jeans! :)
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Thermal fuse repeatedly blown on Whirlpool Duet
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